Conceptual Physical Science Explorations
2nd Edition
ISBN: 9780321567918
Author: Paul G. Hewitt, Leslie A. Hewitt, John A Suchocki
Publisher: Addison Wesley
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Chapter 30, Problem 18RQ
To determine
The reason behind the fact that the waves become taller as they enter shallow water.
Expert Solution & Answer
Answer to Problem 18RQ
The reason behind the fact that the waves become taller as they enter shallow water is the change in shape of the wave from orbital to elliptical.
Explanation of Solution
When wave moves from deep water to shallow water, they change form. In deep water, the wave motion is orbital. In shallow water the orbital motion becomes elliptical. This is because of the contact of the wave with the bottom surface.
This change from orbital to elliptical shape decreases the wave speed. As incoming waves continues to advance, the distance between the waves decreases, causing wave height to increase. That is waves become taller. When waves reach a critical height, they break and crash into the surf zone.
Conclusion:
Therefore, the reason behind the fact that the waves become taller as they enter shallow water is the change in shape of the wave from orbital to elliptical
Chapter 30 Solutions
Conceptual Physical Science Explorations
Ch. 30 - Why do we have moderate temperatures on lands...Ch. 30 - Earths present atmosphere likely developed from...Ch. 30 - What elements make up todays atmosphere?Ch. 30 - Why doesnt gravity flatten the atmosphere against...Ch. 30 - In which atmospheric layer does all our weather...Ch. 30 - Does temperature increase or decrease as one moves...Ch. 30 - What does the angle at which sunlight strikes...Ch. 30 - What does Earths tilt have to do with the change...Ch. 30 - How does radiation emitted from Earth differ from...Ch. 30 - How is the atmosphere near Earths surface heated...
Ch. 30 - What is the underlying cause of air motion?Ch. 30 - What causes pressure difference to arise and hence...Ch. 30 - In what direction does Earth spin-west to east or...Ch. 30 - What does the Coriolis force do to winds? To ocean...Ch. 30 - Why are most of the worlds deserts found in the...Ch. 30 - Why are the eastbound aircraft flights usually...Ch. 30 - Prob. 17RQCh. 30 - Prob. 18RQCh. 30 - Why are all tides greatest at the time of a full...Ch. 30 - When would the highest high tide occur: during a...Ch. 30 - Earth is closest to the Sun in January, but...Ch. 30 - If the composition of the upper atmosphere were...Ch. 30 - If the composition of the upper atmosphere were...Ch. 30 - Why is it important that mountain climbers wear...Ch. 30 - Prob. 5TECh. 30 - Prob. 6TECh. 30 - How do the total number of hours of sunlight in a...Ch. 30 - Why are temperature fluctuations greater over land...Ch. 30 - Because seawater does not freeze easily, sea ice...Ch. 30 - Prob. 10TECh. 30 - How does the ocean influence weather on land?Ch. 30 - Prob. 12TECh. 30 - Prob. 13TECh. 30 - As ocean waves approach shallow water, those with...Ch. 30 - With respect to spring and neap ocean tides, when...Ch. 30 - If Earth were not spinning, in what direction...Ch. 30 - Why is the thermosphere so much hotter than the...Ch. 30 - Prob. 18TECh. 30 - If it is winter and January in Chicago, What are...Ch. 30 - What causes the fiery display of light called the...Ch. 30 - Prob. 1RATCh. 30 - When compared to lands far from the oceans, lands...Ch. 30 - Which pulls with the greater force on the Earths...Ch. 30 - Air motion is greatly influenced by (a) pressure...Ch. 30 - Ocean tides are caused by the differences in the...Ch. 30 - Prob. 6RATCh. 30 - The wind blows in response to (a) frictional drag....Ch. 30 - Prob. 8RATCh. 30 - Prob. 9RATCh. 30 - The ultimate cause of ocean surface currents is...
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