Chapter 30, Problem 14TE

As ocean waves approach shallow water, those with longer wavelengths slow down those before with shorter wavelengths do. Why?

To determine

The reason that the longer wavelength waves slow down before those with shorter wavelength when ocean waves approach shallow water.

Answer to Problem 14TE

The longer wavelength waves slow down before shorter wavelength waves because the energy of the longer wavelength is less than, the shorter wavelength waves.

Explanation of Solution

The longer wavelength waves slow down before those with shorter wavelengths when ocean waves approach shallow water because the energy of the shorter wavelength wave is higher than the energy of the longer wavelength wave. The energy of the shorter wavelength wave is higher because near the beach wavelength of the wave is short, but its speed is very fast as compare to the wave that is in shallow water away from the beach.

So due to the high energy, the shorter wavelength waves can move upto long-range, but due to the low energy of the longer wavelength, the movement of the longer wavelength wave is stopped before the movement of the shorter wavelength.

Conclusion:

Therefore, the longer wavelength waves slows down before shorter wavelength waves because the energy of the longer wavelength is less than the shorter wavelength waves.