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1001L

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Geography

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Oct 30, 2023

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Alessandra Daddario Professor Stewart OCE1001L 1 September 2023 Ride The Waves 1. Which of the following is true of swell ?  created by weather effects  generated by earthquakes  swells are also classified as tsunamis  move in multiple wave trains  move as a single wave train 2. Which of these are restoring forces .  gravitational forces between Earth and Moon  Earth’s gravity earthquakes  landslides  surface tension  wind 3. Which of the following are possible generating force(s) for waves.  gravitational forces between Earth and Moon |  Earth’s gravity  earthquakes  landslides  surface tension  wind 4. Which of these forces restores a capillary wave .  gravitational forces between Earth and Moon  Earth’s gravity earthquakes  landslides  surface tension  wind 5. Which of these forces generates a capillary wave .  gravitational forces between Earth and Moon

 Earth’s gravity earthquakes  landslides  surface tension  wind 6. Which of the following is true of an internal wave ?  Found at surface  Found along pycnoclines  Found along seafloor 7. Using Figure 1, label crest, trough, equilibrium surface, height, and wavelength . Figure 1. Parts of a wave. A. Crest B. Equilibrium surface C. Wavelength D. Trough E. Height 8. What are the number of wavelengths shown in the image above? 3 9. Which of the following would be considered a standing wave ?  Tsunami  Swell  Chop  Seiche  Tides 10. Which of the following would be considered a progressive wave ?  Tsunami

 Swell  Chop  Seiche  Tides 11. Give equation for wave base and describe how it is measured. The Wave base is half of the wavelength. Wave base= ½ Wavelength. 12. If a wave has a wave length of 30 m, what is the wave base depth ? 15m. 13. If 4 wave lengths pass a point in 2 minutes, what is the wave period ? 30 seconds. 14. How fast do tsunami travel? Over 500mph. 15. What’s the average period of a tsunami ? May range from 5 to 90min. 16. What’s the average wavelength of a tsunami ? More than 200km. 17. With a period of 10 seconds and a wavelength of 50 m, what is the wave speed? 500m/s. 18. What happens to wave speed after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore? Slows down. 19. What happens to wave height after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore? Lowers down. 20. What happens to wave length after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore? Lengthens. 21. What happens to wave period after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore? Slow down. 22. At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered a deep water wave ? 15mph or more. 23. At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered NOT a deep water wave ? Less than 15mph. 24. Which types of waves have the potential to have the largest height ? Swell. 25. Which of the following would be considered a deep-water wave in the open ocean ?  Tsunami  Swell  Chop  Seiche in Pool/Lagoon/Bay 26. Which of the following will increase wind wave height in the open ocean?  Strong winds  Moderate winds  Weak winds 27. As a result, where in the world’s oceans do we get the largest open ocean wind waves? Why? In the southern hemisphere due to the wind. 28. What type of interference causes rogue waves?

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 constructive  destructive 29. Which direction does a rip current move? (Hint: time to do some outside research):  along the shore  towards the shore  away from the shore 30. What causes rip currents ?  jetty  headland  two longshore currents colliding  wave direction 31. Can they be predicted? Explain. No, because rip currents move quickly therefore the currents cannot be predicted. 32. Which direction does a longshore current move?  along the shore  towards the shore  away from the shore 33. What cause(s) longshore currents ?  jetty  headland  two longshore currents colliding  wave direction 34. Which of the following is true for tsunami (pick all that apply):  deep-water wave  shallow-water wave  produced by earthquakes  produced by landslides  produced by strong winds  considered a rogue (episodic) wave  considered a standing wave  considered a progressive wave 35. What’s the average height of a tsunami in the open ocean ? No more than 10ft/3m. 36. Are tsunami dangerous in the open sea? What happens when they reach shore? No, tsunamis are dangerous when they approach land, because it can destroy and flood everything.

37. Which types of waves have the smallest wavelength, height, and period? (Check the Log Book) Capillary. 38. Which types of waves have the largest wavelength? (Check the Log Book) Tsunami and tide. 39. Which types of waves have the longest period? (Check the Log Book) Tide. 40. Where is your Pirate Ship headed? (Check the Chapter 2 introduction). What are the coordinates of the landmark? Southeast toward Drake Passage. 59 ° S, 63 °W.