Chapter 16, Problem 46AP

An undersea earthquake or a landslide can produce an ocean wave of short duration carrying great energy, called a tsunami. When its wavelength is large compared to the ocean depth d, the speed of a water wave is given approximately by $v=\sqrt{gd}$. Assume an earthquake occurs all along a tectonic plate boundary running north to south and produces a straight tsunami wave crest moving everywhere to the west. (a) What physical quantity can you consider to be constant in the motion of any one wave crest? (b) Explain why the amplitude of the wave increases as the wave approaches shore. (c) If the wave has amplitude 1.80 m when its speed is 200 m/s, what will be its amplitude where the water is 9.00 m deep? (d) Explain why the amplitude at the shore should be expected to be still greater, but cannot be meaningfully predicted by your model.