Figure I shows time series of the nondimensional surface wave elevation n(t) and the corresponding nondimensional sand erosion QE(t), in the same figure. What is the phase difference between these two functions and what is the frequency transfer function HnQE(w)? What is the sand erosion spectrum expressed as a function of the wave frequency spectrum Sp(w)?

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wave elevation
erosion
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
-0.2
-0.4
-0.6
-0.8
-1
3
5
time (s)
Figure 1 shows time series of the nondimensional surface wave elevation n(t) and the
corresponding nondimensional sand erosion QE(t), in the same figure. What is the phase
difference between these two functions and what is the frequency transfer function
H1QE(W)? What is the sand erosion spectrum expressed as a function of the wave
frequency spectrum Spy(w)?
wave elevation, erosion,
2.
Transcribed Image Text:wave elevation erosion 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 -0.2 -0.4 -0.6 -0.8 -1 3 5 time (s) Figure 1 shows time series of the nondimensional surface wave elevation n(t) and the corresponding nondimensional sand erosion QE(t), in the same figure. What is the phase difference between these two functions and what is the frequency transfer function H1QE(W)? What is the sand erosion spectrum expressed as a function of the wave frequency spectrum Spy(w)? wave elevation, erosion, 2.
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