Answered: As ocean surface waves entering the…

Applications and Investigations in Earth Science (9th Edition)

9th Edition

ISBN:9780134746241

Author:Edward J. Tarbuck, Frederick K. Lutgens, Dennis G. Tasa

Publisher:Edward J. Tarbuck, Frederick K. Lutgens, Dennis G. Tasa

Chapter1: The Study Of Minerals

Section: Chapter Questions

Problem 1LR

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As ocean surface waves entering the water of decreasing depth begin to “feel” the presence of the bottom, the character of the waves is altered. The intermediate vertical cross-section in Figure 6A-1, called a transitional wave, shows that the vertical displacements of water parcels follow oval paths which become smaller and more oval-shaped with increasing depth until just above the ocean bottom, the water particle motion is essentially ______.
a.only up and down
b.only horizontally back and forth
c.both up and down, and back and forth

To progress as a shallow-water wave type, as seen in the vertical cross-section on the right in Figure 6A-1, the caption below the cross-section indicates the water depth must be less than ______ its wavelength.
a.1/2
b.1/20th
c.1/50th

Transcribed Image Text:### Wave Characteristics Table #### Wave Type Analysis | | Deep-Water | Transitional | Shallow-Water | |----------------|-------------|---------------------------|----------------| | **Wavelength (m)** | | | | | **Wave Period (sec)** | | | | | **Wave Speed (m/sec)** | | | | | **Wave Speed Formula** | = wavelength/period | | | | **Water Depth (m)** | More than ___ m | Between ___ m and ___ m | Less than ___ m | --- ### Water Motion Dynamics #### Deep-Water Waves - **Conditions**: Water depth greater than 1/2 wavelength. - **Water Motion**: Circular motion decreases with depth and is negligible below the wave base. #### Transitional Waves - **Conditions**: Water depth between 1/2 and 1/20 wavelength. - **Water Motion**: Intermediate behavior with elliptical orbits. Influence of the seabed starts to become noticeable. #### Shallow-Water Waves - **Conditions**: Water depth less than 1/20 wavelength. - **Water Motion**: Horizontal movement becomes dominant and orbits flatten near the seabed. --- ### Wave Profile Schema The diagram at the bottom illustrates the changes in wave characteristics as waves move from deep water towards shallow water near the shore. 1. **Deep-Water Waves**: With wavelengths longer than the water depth, typically found far offshore. 2. **Transitional Waves**: Encountering the seabed and transitioning from deep to shallow conditions. 3. **Shallow-Water Waves**: Experiencing significant seabed interaction, wave speed slows, and wave height increases, leading up to breakers. 4. **Breaking Waves**: The waves break when they reach a critical height as they move into shallower water, generating surf. 5. **Surf and Beach Interactions**: The surf zone and subsequent beach interactions where energy is dissipated. ### Note - The diagrams are not to scale and serve as conceptual representations of wave behaviors in different water depths.

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