Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx

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EVALUATE THE USE AND FORMULATION OF COSMECEUTICALS ASSE SSME NT T ASK 1 -WORK BOOK 2 Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 1 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx ASSE SSME NT MARK IN G SHEE T Student Name Accredited Courses and Units 52850WA Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science CDNEFC02 Evaluate the use and formulation of cosmeceuticals 52852WA Graduate Diploma of Cosmetic Nursing and Injectables 52854WA Graduate Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science 52709WA Graduate Diploma of Cosmetic Nursing GDTEFC801A / GCNEFCP801A Evaluate the use and formulation of cosmeceuticals 52707WA Graduate Diploma of Dermal Therapies M ARK IN G & FE EDBACK Date of Assessment Assessment Feedback Completed Satisfactorily Satisfactory Not Yet Satisfactory Assessor Declaration I confirm that I have provided feedback to and advised the above-named student of the outcome of this assessment task. Assessor Name / Signature Date

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 2 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx WORKBOOK INSTRUCTIONS Ensure you have opened this workbook and followed the on-screen instructions before typing directly into the workbook. If you use another format or preview, your assessor will not be able to provide you with feedback. Once complete, please save a copy for yourself and upload a completed version to your assessor via the student portal. You can obtain the answers for the activities through the online lectures, additional reading material and Internet searches. All questions must be attempted. Feedback and assistance are available from your assessor prior to the assignments due date. IMPORTANT: Please do not copy and paste answers from lecture notes. (Please see the AACDS Study Guide/Academic Writing section if you’re unsure what this means). TUTORIAL ACTIVITY 6 – IDENTIFY AND DISCUSS ANTIOXIDANTS AND VITAMINS The following 4 questions are extracted from: Fitzpatrick, R. and Rostan, E. (2002) Double-Blind, Half-Face Study Comparing Topical Vitamin C and Vehicle for Rejuvenation of Photodamage. Dermatologic Surgery 28, 231 – 236 which can be downloaded as a separate file referred to as Annexure B under the Assessment Tab Question 1 Yes No What does the L in L-Ascorbic Acid mean? References how the molecule rotates to light. L stands for LEVO Assessor’s comments Question 2 Yes No Why have the authors used two different forms of topical Vitamin C? (Hint: it is not to compare the two forms) The authors used to different types of Vitamin C to determine which would be the more effective acid in penetrating the epidermis and dermis to prevent photo damage + stimulating collagen synthesis. L-Ascorbic Acid has been proven to be effective in prevention of photodamage to the epidermis within the stratum corneum. Has shown positive effects in inflammation condidtions such as psoraisis, however when testing the efficacy in prevention of photodamage in the dermis it is unable to penetrate as deeply, to prevent or reverse collagen denaturing. It was formulated into a polysilicone gel to increase the bioavailability and allowed for a time-released delivery of the Vitamin C without it degradating too quickly as seen in other formulas. What L-Ascrobic is unable to achieve Tetrahexyldecly Ascorbate is a newer active lipid form was utilized for its increased ability to penetrate enzymes which convert Vitamin C within the Dermis. This shows a superior stabilitly when comparing to L-Ascorbic Acid as it ensure delivery of the Vitamin C to the fibroblasts in the Dermis to aid in collagen synthesis. Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 3 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 3 Yes No What arguments do the authors present for which form of vitamin C is more effective? The arguments that the authors present for Tetrahexyldecly Ascorbate to be the more beneficial Vitamin C as it is able to penetrate both the epidermis and dermis to aid reversal of photo damage. 1. Reversal of photodamge is most beneficial with localization of vitamin C to cell membranes for protection of cell membrane integrity that is achieved with lipid soluble analogs, Tetrahexyldecly Ascorbate. 2.Reversal of photo damage to have adequate levels of intracellular content whichis achieved with water soluble ascorbic acid. Assessor’s comments Question 4 Yes No Why do you think improvement was noted on the gel-based side (placebo) as well as the vitamin C side? I think improvements where noted on both sides as placebos effects tend to make the consumer believe that improvements in their skin are happening on either side. In the clinical study they noted some of the patients had notebly dry skin before comencing the trial and at the end had normal hydrating levels in both sides. They do not mention what other products were used in conjunction with the trial products so I am not sure if the patients changed moistorisers or used hydrating serums to aid their hydration levels. The study shows minimal improvement on the placebo side, where as the treated side showed greater improves in pigmentation hydration. Assessor’s comments Question 5 Yes No Discuss the role of oral and topical Vitamin C in maintaining collagen synthesis. Dietary Vitamin C is essential for the maintenance of connective tissue and collagen formation and increases intestinal absorption of iron. Defieciency in Vitamin C is known as Scurvy, which leads to chronic fatigue, anemia, gum disease and skin disorders, it is known to be more common in certain subgroups of the population. Humans cannot synthesise their own Vitmin C due to a mutation in the L-gulono-y-lactone oxidase gene, which is why we rely on other sources to collect our needed vitamin C intake. The use of topical vitamin C aids in collagen synthesis, there are different forms which penetrate the skin at different levels, most effective form is a lipophilic concentrate that is able to penetrate into the dermis and be utilised by the fibroblasts when creating the proteins collagen and elastin. Assessor’s comments

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Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 4 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 6 Yes No In your own words, describe how antioxidants (such as Vitamin C) function as a photo protectant. It limits the amount of damge caused by UV expsure by protecting the skin from UV induced free radicals. This does not replace spfs. Assessor’s comments Question 7 Yes No Vitamin E (tochoperol) is one of the most common ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Discuss its oral and topical benefits and why it’s so commonly used as a key cosmeceutical ingredient. Vitamin E is a natural component for healthy skin. It offers significant antioxidant properties that aids in strengthens the skin from environmental stressors that would cause unwanted changes in the skin. It is also believed that vitamin E assits in wound healing processes that it improves the appearance of scars, though many scientist say that more data is needed to make a definitive choice. AMENDMENT || ADDING TO ABOVE Antioxidant Properties: Vitamin E has a major function in its action as a lipid antioxidant to protect the polyunsaturated membrane lipids against free radical attack. It is also believed to prevent or delay chronic deisasesassociated with free radical damage. Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 5 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 8 Yes No Research how UVR and glycation contribute to skin ageing. You may wish to use the article: Glycation, Damage and Aging (available under assessment tab) to assist with your answer. All data showcases that both processes are closely interconnected. UVR increases ROS in the dermis which contributes to the appearance of glycoxidation. Glucose overlaps around collagen and elastin fibers, as time goes on they become rigid and break. AGE molecules accumulate in the dermis and destroy the support that is formed by the elastin and collgen. Assessor’s comments Question 9 Yes No Alpha Lipoic Acid has the ability to regenerate other antioxidants. Explain what this means and list ingredients you would add to an Alpha Lipoic Acid cosmeceuticals to enhance its efficacy. ALA is able to regenerate antioxidants that are no longer active within the skin, aiding in the battle of free-radical damage. -L-Asorbic Acid - tocopherol - CO Enzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) Assessor’s comments Question 10 Yes No Explain the role Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) has in cellular functions. Assits the mitochondria conduct energy, prevent cellular damage caused by free radical damage, improves collagen synthesis and accelerates epithelialiseation. Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 6 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx

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Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 7 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 11 Yes No List two ingredients from the following vitamin B formulations (Product A or B) that would best treat a dry, irritated skin lacking in oil? (Please explain your answer) Product A AQUA / WATER / EAU, GLYCERIN, DIMETHICONE, NIACINAMIDE, PROPANEDIOL, DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER, METHYLSILANOL/SILICATE CROSSPOLYMER, SODIUM CHLORIDE, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, PHENOXYETHANOL, MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE, CI 77163 / BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE, CHLORPHENESIN, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, SODIUM CITRATE, ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYSTEARATE, PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, DISODIUM EDTA, CELLULOSE GUM, LAMINARIA DIGITATA EXTRACT, ADENOSINE, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, CITRUS AURANTIUM AMARA FLOWER OIL / BITTER ORANGE FLOWER OIL, MELALEUCA VIRIDIFLORA LEAF OIL, TETRADECYL AMINOBUTYROYLVALYLAMINOBUTYRIC UREA TRIFLUOROACETATE, LINALOOL, CYMBOPOGON SCHOENANTHUS OIL, MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE, CITRAL, TOCOPHEROL, LIMONENE, PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL Product B ORGANIC ALOE BARBADENSIS, ORGANIC HELIANTHUS ANNUUS, ISOPROPYL PALMITATE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, HYALURONIC ACID, PHOSPHOLIPIDS, RETINOL, POLYSORBATE 20, POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE, VITAMIN E, CASSIA ANGUSTIFOLIA SEED POLYSACCHARIDE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, CETANOL, STEARIC ACID, KOSHER VEGETABLE GLYCERIN, ORGANIC JOJOBA OIL, GREEN TEA, WILDCRAFTED RESINA PROPOLI (PROPOLIS), BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA BUTTER), PANTHENOL (VITAMIN B5), ROSE ETHER, ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN, XANTHAN GUM, CITRIC ACID. PRODUCT B is the more appropriate choice for treating a dry skin lacking oil as it contains nourishing, hydrating and barrier bulding ingredients. Panthenol: Increases lipid synthesis resulting in reduced TEWL, improved barrier function & promotes fibroblast proliferation. Vitamin E: Alters GAG formation, reduces formation of oxygen radicals which impair healing and damaged cellular membranes, lipids and DNA, Epidermal antioxidant which absorbs some UV light. Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 8 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx TUTORIAL ACTIVITY 7 – IDENTIFY AND DISCUSS SKIN LIGHTENING AGENTS Question 1 Yes No Identify and list the skin lightening agents in the following two ingredient lists (Column A) in Column B Column A Column B Product 1 Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi leaf extract Salix Alba Extract - Dioscorea Mexiana Root Extract - Product 2 Magenesium Acrobyl Phosphate Arbutin Melissa Officinalis Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi leaf extract Glycine Soja Morus Alba Leaf Extract Yeast Extract Citrus Tangerina Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 9 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 2 Yes No Which cosmeceutical (Product A or B), has more of an exfoliating action and what is the role of exfoliants in skin lightening cosmeceuticals? Product A: aids in rapid desquamation of the pigmented keratinocytes and improve the penetration of the skin lightening ingredients. Assessor’s comments Question 3 Yes No Identify one main causative factor for each of the following types of hyperpigmentation. Select from the following key: Genetics / chronic sun exposure / hydroquinone / hormones / thin dermis / trauma / glycation / photoreaction Type of Hyperpigmentation Main Causative Factor (select one answer from the key only) Melasma Hormones Solar Lentigines Chronic SUn Exposure Poikioloderma of Civette Chronic Sun Exposure Freckles (Ephelides) Genetics Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation Trauma Actinic Bronzing Chronic Sun Exposure Rheils melanosis Photo Reaction Sallowness/Bronzing Glycation Exogenous ochronosis Hydroquinone Dark under eye circles/pigment Thin Dermis Assessor’s comments Question 4 Yes No In which circumstances would you recommend Kligman’s Formula? When a client has tried every dermal remedy and has not seen any difference or success in their skin for treating Melasma, PIHP and severs cases of Dyschromia. Assessor’s comments

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Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 10 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 5 Yes No Explain why retinoic acid is used in Kligman’s formula. It is key component as it aids in cellular turnover and inhibits tyrosinase, hence removing the pigmented keratinocytes and allows for the newer more organised cells that do not contain the pigmentation to replace them leading to a fading effect of the pigmentation. Assessor’s comments Question 6 Yes No Identify the percentage of hydroquinone used in OTC cosmeceuticals sold in Australia: a) 2% and over b) 2% and under c) Anything over 2% when formulated with Vit. E d) Hydroquinone is not regulated in Australia B) 2% and under is available for OTC Assessor’s comments Question 7 Yes No In your own words, please explain the potential risks and the prevalence of these risks associated with long-term hydroquinone use. Long term use of Hydraquinone can lead to chronic adverse events. This type of active is only meant for short term use due to the nature of the product as it accerlates cellular renewal which can be detrimental to barrier function as the skin will be left significantly sensitised. Other chronic side effects include: Nail discolouration, Conjunctival Melanosis and Exogeneous Ochronosis which is the most difficult to treat once diagnosed. Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 11 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 8 Yes No Watch the TED-ed video on the Science of Skin Colour by clicking HERE In relation to melanin synthesis, please explain the following terms: Rhodopsin A natural response within the skin as the sunlight/UV light touches the skin it triggers these receptors to stimulate melanin synthese to sheild the surround skin cells Pheomelanin A yellow/red pigment most commonly found in fitz skin types I-II. These skin types better absorb UV aiding in Vitamin D Synthesis, the downside is they do not have enough melanin to proctect the surrounding skin cells from melanoma after too long UV exposure Eumelanin A brown/black pigment most commonly found in fitz skin types III-VI. It is a built in sheild for surronding skin cells and is resistant to melanomas as it does not absorb the UV light as well as pheomelanin. The downside is lack of vitamin D synthesis. Assessor’s comments Question 9 Yes No Evaluate the following ingredient list and discuss the importance of using multiple key active ingredients in skin lightening formulas. ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE, NIACINAMIDE (VITAMIN B3), SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE (VITAMIN C), BUTYLENE GLYCOL, HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN, ADENOSINE TRIPHOSPHATE, SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE, GLYCERINE, BELLIS PERENNIS (DAISY) FLOWER EXTRACT, RUMEX OCCIDENTALIS EXTRACT, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT, ARCTOSTAYPHLOS UVA URSI (BEARBERRY) LEAF EXTRACT, SODIUM OLEATE, OLIGOPEPTIDE-68, HYALURONIC ACID, POLYSORBATE-20, PHENOXYETHANOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, CARBOMER, XANTHAN GUM, CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA (LIME) OIL, DISODIUM EDTA

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 12 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx It is important to use several different types as they can be asborb differently and may not be as effective in preventing melanin synthesis. Each ingredient works alongside each other increasing the efficacy of the product. Assessor’s comments

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Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 13 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx TUTORIAL ACTIVITY 8 – IDENTIFY AND DISCUSS EXFOLIANTS Question 1 Yes No Discuss the variations between and distinguishing factors of the following topical exfoliants. Lactic Acid Found Naturally in the Body Has more moisturising properties due to an extra hydroxyl group Larger molecule reduces percutaneous penetration Less irritating, more suitable for sensitive skins. Water Soluble Glycolic Acid Has been well researched which backs the efficacy of this type of AHA Is a smaller molecule which enhances percutaneous penetration Is more irritating, suitable for thicker skin Water Soluble Salicylic Acid Found in many fruits and vegetables, known as an essential hormone for plant growth and development Found in Aspirin - those who have an allergy to aspirin cannot have SA based products Reduces in inflammation Active ingredient in Anti-Dandruff shampoo Penetrates via pilosebaceous unit Excellent for acne skins Minimises pore size, sebum, congestions, hyperkeratotsis Fat Soluble Gluconolactone 2 nd Generation AHA Naturally found in the human body Creates a humectant effect in the epidermis Have an antioxidant effect on the skin Inhibits metalloprotinase Reduces pigmentation, keratosis, fine lines, photo damage, congestion and acne lesions Lactobionic Acid 3 rd Generation AHA Binds water to the skin, reducing TEWL

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 14 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Inhibits metalloprotinase Have an antioxidant effect for the skin Reduces pigmentation, keratosis, fine lines, photo damage, facial redness,Rosacea Physical exfoliants (eg. organic abrasive material) An abrasive form that exfoliate the stratum corneum Can be rough cloths, mittsm flannels Organic material such as husks, seeds and cellulose In-organic mircro beads made from plastics Aluminum crystals used in microdermabrasions Enzymes String of amino acids forming a unique shape resulting in chemcial reaction Enzymes are considered a more 'botanical' cosmeceutical A gentler exfoliating from, great for sensitive skins Assessor’s comments Question 2 Yes No Which type of exfoliant (eg. Glycolic, lactic, salicylic, gluconolactone, lactobionic acids) would be most suitable in the following skin conditions. Explain why. a) Mature, dry skin with extensive solar keratosis Lactic acid is very benefical for mature dry skin. It increases cellular turnover and eliminates accumulated dead skin in the stratum corneum. Lactic acid has a larger molecular weight which reduces its percutaneous penetrating which is less irritating for mature skins. It also aids in reducing TEWL due it having an extra hydroxyl group which is needed in mature skin. May also inhibit UVB induced skin tumor development by the tumor expressing gene. b) Oily, acne prone skin Salicylic acid would be the best exfoliant for acne prone skin as it is a lipophilic product that is able to penetrate the pilosebaceous unit to decrease sebum production and reduce inflammation as it also has anti-inflammatory properties. It is able to dissolve dermasomes and tight junctions between keratinocytes which is benefical to reduce acne lesions. c) Young skin with melasma Glycolic Acid is the perfect exfoliant for younger skin. It has a smaller molecular weight which is able to achieve a deeper percutaneous penetration, this may be slightly irritating however a younger skin will not find it as irritating

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 15 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx when comparing to a mature skin. Gycolic acid is known to reduce melanin clumps and aids in increasing absorption of skin lightening agents which is beneficial for pigmented conditions. d) Sensitive, sun damaged skin Lactobionic Acid would a be a great choice, it is similar to lactic acid however has a larger molecular weight and is much milder in comparison. It contains great antioxidant properties, reduces TEWL as it is a greater humectant. It aids in increasing cellular turnover and fades pigmented lesions. Assessor’s comments Question 3 Yes No a) Which disorder of keratinisation is commonly treated by the dermal therapist or cosmetic nurse? Keratosis Pilaris also known as follicular keratosis b) And which exfoliating cosmeceutical ingredient(s) would you recommend to treat this condition? Glycolic acid, AHAS Assessor’s comments Question 4 Yes No Discuss how pH affects the bioavailability of AHAs. It effects how well the AHA will be absorb by the skin and how much free acid is available to penetrate the stratum corneum. The higher the pH the less effective the AHA will be and the lower th pH the more effective the AHA will be. Assessor’s comments Question 5 Yes No a) Which of the following acids have the largest molecular weight? Gluconolactone Glycolic acid Salicylic acid Lactobionic acid Lactic acid Pyruvic acid b) Explain how a larger molecule with an additional methyl group will change product delivery and performance.

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Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 16 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx It changes because it is unable to penetrate the skin as deeply so it will be less irritating when comparing to smaller molecules. It is able to gently exfoliate the skin and is considered a more surface-level treatment. Assessor’s comments Question 6 Yes No Jane has heard that exfoliating with AHAs and BHA will thin the skin, cause irritation and make the skin more susceptible to sunburn. What facts would you discuss with her? AHA's & BHA's do not thin the skin, they have proven to be very effective in increasing th skins thickness as it increases cellular turnover and indirectly stimulate collagen and elastin to help stregthen the skin. Because of the nature of AHA's/BHA's in exfoliating the skin it does cause the skin to be more sun sensitive. It is recommended to use spf 50+ and take extra precautions in protecting the skin while using AHA's. Assessor’s comments Question 7 Yes No Explain AHA’s (specifically glycolic acid’s) mechanism of action in relation to dermal modeling. Glycolic acid restructures the stratum corneum by increasing the cellular turn over which improves the cells and makes it more compact and organised. It is indirectly stimulating the biosynthesis of GAGs, collagen and improves the qulity of elastin fibers. Assessor’s comments Question 8 Yes No Drs Van Scott and Yu originally researched AHAs to treat which skin condition? (Select one only) Disorders of pigmentation Inflammatory acne Disorders of keratinisation Actinic ageing (photo damage) Psoriasis Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 17 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx TUTORIAL ACTIVITY 9 – IDENTIFY AND DISCUSS BOTANICALS Question 1 Yes No C 1 H 2 A Y R P 3 P C H O I T 4 Y A 5 R N I C A T U 6 P 7 L O N O 8 X I D A T I O N R A 9 F 10 L G N E R E L L E E I S E P L A R N N T G A E V G I S R U R R O E C O L A G N N G A 11 N T I M I C R O B I A L E T I C I C N P 12 L A C E B O D S D N S 13 O Y Across 5. Generally considered to reduce bruising? 8. Green and Black tea come from the same plant, though green tea has not had the same amount of_____________________? 11. Tea tree is often used in acne formulation due to its __________________ activity 12. The effects of homeopathic formulas may be due to ____________________ effect 13. Genistein is derived from ___________________ Down 1. Genistein has an anti - ______________________ action? 2. A botanical myth? 3. __________________ may be involved in thickening post-menopausal skin 4. The active phytochemicals in Witch Hazel? 6. In the USA, botanicals are ________________________? 7. A variable in manufacturing botanical cosmeceuticals? 9. ___________ dermatitis occurs when the immune system becomes sensitised to an allergen 10. ___________ are present in green tea and soy Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 18 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 2 Yes No Denise started making some botanical skincare products in her kitchen for her own personal use. She’s now seen an opportunity to sell her products at a local market and online. Below is an example of one of her proposed labels for a moisturizing cream. With TGA regulations in mind, identify issues on this label. Denise is claiming that her products are natural and organic. There is no method to approve or dispprove whether her products are 100% natural and organic as the materials could be all synthetic. Also claiming that her moistoriser is an effective treatment for dermatologic conditions and is hyporallergenic is misleading as botanicals are known to cause allergic contact dermatitis and irritant conctact dermatitis. || ADDING TO ABOVE || Claiming a product is hypoallergenic is misleading the consumer to believe that they will not get any irritations when using the products. It is known that botanical or "natural" products can cause allergic reactions from mild to contact dermatitis, xerosis and inflammation just how syntheticaly made ingredients can also cause such irritations in the skin. Also claiming that her product is an effective reliever for skin conditions such as eczema and dermatitis she must register her product with the TGA listed or registered list. Assessor’s comments Question 3 Yes No Denise’s label states the product contains 10% papaya extract. Assess factors during the manufacturing process that make it difficult to state an exact concentration of a botanical. This all is dependant on the qualtiy of the fruit and the manufactoring. If the fruit was extracted too early, was grown in poor conditions such as poor soil, not enough sun/water, and what was the extract exposed to after. These variables all effect the efficacy of the ingredient which could mean she could only be gaining 2% or even less than 1% strenght.

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Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 19 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Assessor’s comments Question 4 Yes No You are formulating a new cosmeceutical product designed for post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. You would like your product to contain botanical key active ingredients only. Complete the following table to start your formulation plan. Action Active botanical ingredient (list 2 per category) Explain why you’ve selected these ingredients Anti-inflammatory 1. Aloe Vera 2. Lavender Oil Both are excellent ingredients in inducing wound healing, reducing inflammation. Antioxidant 1. Pycnogenol 2. Gingko Biloba Both have high antioxidant properties and is able to regenerate vitamin C Skin lightening 1. Bearberry 2. Licorice Root Both are great TI's and aid in lightening the skin Assessor’s comments Question 5 Yes No Evaluate the function of the following 5 botanicals: Botanical Physiological Effect Genistein Aids in collagen synthesis, which physically smoothes fine lines or deep set lines. Also increases thickeness in epidermis. Protects against UVR damage, anti-carinogenic, reducing hyperpigmentaiton Green tea Source of flavonoids and polyphenols, reduces UVB induced inflammation. Modulate biochemical pathways that are important in cell proliferation and inflammatory responses. Resveratrol Inhibits the production of tyrosinaise, down regulates the production of MMPS which aids in maintaining collagen and elastin. Curcumin 19.10.22 || functions as an antioxidant and preservative to prevent oxidation of a product, also reported to have a therapeutic role in wound care and eczema. Coffeberry Antioxidant Enhances collagen synthesis, decreases cellular damage caused by UVR.

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 20 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Assessor’s comments

Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 21 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx TUTORIAL ACTIVITY 10 – IDENTIFY COSMECEUTICAL MYTHS AND NEW RESEARCH Case Study 1 Yes No Below is an example of a challenging patient asking a series of challenging questions in relation to cosmeceuticals. In the table provided, please answer his questions in a diplomatic and professional manner. Question 1 that’s ok, not everyone needs injectables to smooth out fine lines. At this stage, unfortunately CS do not remove deep set lines, due to constant muscle movement. I would highly recommend our firming serum by skin actives, it contains DMAE which is a vitamin B and is able to improve the appearance of lines of the skin but I cannot guarantee complete removal. Botox is the better option Question 2 Natural ingredients are also known to cause skin irritations as many studies have shown and are the irritants that can cause contact dermatitis. I would recommend to have a skin diary to documentate when your skin becomes irritated when using certain products. It may also be that you could have an impaired skin barrier which is causing the sensitivity in your skin. Question 3 There have been muliple studies to prove that SPF's help to prevent cancer. It may have been false advertisement by a certain brand that unfortunately caused some consumers to have cancer as it did not contain adequate UVB & A protectants. To know if your sunscreen will protect you from UVA & B rays it would say broad-spectrum

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Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 22 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Question 4 CS are design to improve textural, pigmented changes within the skin. Unfortunately they are not effective in adding volume to areas of the face. It might be best for you to speak with one of our Cosmetic Nurses who will be able to discuss with your further regarding your concerns. Question 5 SLS is a surfectant which helps your cleanser foam when using it. Many studies have proven that SLS is not linked to cancer. When SLS is used in products they are always designed to be washed off the skin. Question 6 Yes! I would highly recommend a combination of different products to increase cellular turn over to remove discolourated skin cells and replace them with more organised healthy cells. These products would include a 4% Lactic Acid cleanser to use morning and night, 10% vitamin C L-Asorbic Acid serum, 1% retinol. How does that sound? Assessor’s comments Question 7 Yes No Complete the following table using information from the review article: Bioactive Peptides: Applications and Relevance for Cosmeceuticals (available under Assessment tab). Action should include if it is a carrier peptide, signal peptide or neurotransmitter inhibiting peptide. Function should include what effect it has on the body. Peptide Action (i.e. how does it work?) Function GHK-Cu Carrier Peptide to assist in copper transfer into the skin Wound healing, enhanced Collagen synthesis Acetyl hexapeptide-3 A neurotransmitter inhibiting peptide reduces muscular contraction Reduces muscular contraction for treatment of dynamic lines Acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline and Pentapetide-18 A neurotransmitter inhibiting peptide reduces muscular contraction and reduces MMPS Reduces muscular contraction for treatment of dynamic lines Tripeptide-41 Activates Nf-kB, a nuclear transcription factor which promotes the synthesis of tumour necrosis factor α (TNFα), a cytokine capable of triggering lipolysis Reduces adipose tissue on areas applied. slimming body

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Niche Education Group Pty Ltd AUSTRALASIAN ACADEMY OF COSMETIC DERMAL SCIENCE ©2022 Version 3.0 23 Feb 2022 23 https://d.docs.live.net/e51b54898ab89bed/Documents/Dermal Science/Cosmeceutical Science/Workbook 2 CDNEFC02 2023 Eddition.xx.docx Oligopeptide-68 Inhibits the actions of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MTIF), a regulator of melanocyte differentiation, by reducing its tyrosinase activity and "slowing down" key enzymes of the pigmentation process. Inhibitis the process of MITF by reducing its tyrosinase activity and slowing down key enzymes of the pigmentation process. Assessor’s comments

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