Soil Texture Analysis: Methods and Interpretation of Results

V I) Discussion While conducting the experiment, one of the way to differentiate the soil physical property is through soil texture. Soil texture refers to the proportion of the soil “separates “ that make up the mineral component of soil. The type of field method of soil texture estimation that been used is Ball & Ribbon Method. Soil texture of Residential College E, compound's soil was described as loamy sand. Ribbon could not be formed when conducting the ribbon test. While conducting the ball test of College E, compound’s soil, the soil managed to be molded into a 3 cm sized ball, however, when rolled into a 6-7 cm sausage, it fell apart. Hence, we can interpret that this sample soil is a loamy sand. Soil texture of ODEC was described as Sand. ODEC soil did not produce any ribbon during the ribbon test and hence, we can conclude that it’s texture is sand. For the ball test, ODEC soil did not survive when molded into 3 cm ball and falls apart. Hence, we interpret that it is of a sand texture. Soil texture of UMS Peak interpreted as sandy loam or clay loam. The length of the ribbon that can be formed was 2.7 cm and shows us that it is of a clay loam texture. For the ball method, UMS Peak soil sample survived the first two stages. However, when rolled into a 15-16 cm long sausage, it falls apart. Hence, we categorized the soil as sandy loam. Soil texture of soil College E, Blk B1 was recorded as loam. The length of the ribbon that can be form was 2.9 cm where it showed the texture of clay loam. For the ball test, the soil sample was recorded as loam as it was the only soil that survived till it was bent into a half circle shaped from a 15-16 cm long sausage shape. Soil texture of Garden Soil was recorded as Sandy loam or loam. The length of the ribbon that can be formed was 2.4 cm which indicates loam texture. For the ball test, the soil sample only fell apart when rolled into a 15-16 cm long sausage shape. Hence, we interpret it as sandy loam. For the Mason Jar test, due to the small size of the jar, the layers of each composition was not apparent enough for measurements and calculations. Hence, it was difficult to identify the many layers formed for each jar. The bottom layer where the sand occupies was the most apparent and obvious as seen from the table on Mason Jar test. Each jar consists of a layer of sand that covers over 90% of the soil composition in the jar. To further identify accurately the composition of the soil, sieve analysis test must be conducted. Organic matter was also found floating on the top layer of each jar. VII) Conclusion Both the Mason Jar test and the Ball and Ribbon test showed differences of soil texture for 5 different soil types separately. The Mason Jar test showed that sand was a large component in each of the 5 soil types. Next, soil texture analysis is to determine the texture class and name. By knowing the soil texture, it helps us manage the soil and it influences storm water infiltration rates, the rate of water movement through soil, soil water holding capacity, the ease of tilling The application of waste or polluted water into the soil alters its physical and

chemical, thereby affecting the growth of agricultural crops and other living organisms. Even the extensive agricultural practices such as fertilizer and pesticide application deteriorate the soil quality.Its impacts can be far-reaching, including loss of soil fertility, destruction of species habitat and biodiversity, soil erosion, and excessive nutrient runoff into lakes. Land degradation also has serious knock-on effects for humans, such as malnutrition, disease, forced migration, cultural damage, and even war the

soil

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

and the amount of aeration. If you have clay soil, you can also add organic matter like compost as it will break up clay particles and reduce compaction. This will greatly improve the ease in digging your soil as well as drainage. *Want to see the best guide for making a compost pile? Click on the link below and have a look at the video embedded. It shows the complete breakdown of a pile in the simplest manner possible. https://growitbuildit.com/how-to- make-a-compost-pile/

One of my favorite ways to add organic matter is to apply a heavy mulch of leaves or straw in the fall. Did you know that leaves contain all essential the nutrients your garden needs! By doing this worms will eat the leaves, and as they travel down into your soil eject worm castings. So, they will aerate your soil and fertilize it at the same time! They get food, and you are now able to grow more food – that is what you call a Win/ Win! References: [1] – Colorado State University Cooperative Extension , CMG Fact Sheet S14. Retrieved 23SEP2020 [2] – Hamarashid, Othman, Hussain 2010, Effects of Soil Texture on Chemical Compositions, Microbial Populations and Carbon Mineralization in Soil . Egypt. J. Exp. Biol. (Bot.), 6(1): 59 – 64 (2010). Retrieved 09- 23-2020 [3] – USDA soil texture analysis calculator. Retrieved 23SEP2020 Save EMAIL PRINT Recommended  Testing Soil Texture by Hand – The Soil Ribbon Test

 How To Start A Native Plant Garden From Scratch  Liatris Spicata 101 – Complete Guide to Blazing Star Joe Foster Hi - I grew up outdoors in nature - hiking, fishing, hunting. In high school I got my first job at a garden center where I learned to garden and landscape. I've been growing plants from seed and designing native plant gardens for over 10 years. I hope to share some of my knowledge with you! You may have seen some of my videos I create on our YouTube channel, GrowitBuildit (more than 10 million views!). You can find my channel here: https://youtube.com/@growitbuildit Additionally I am a wood worker / DIY enthusiast. I enjoy designing/building projects (with hand tools when I can!). I hope to give you some tips and useful information! Recent Posts

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

link to Black Cherry - A Complete Guide To Growing, Care, And Uses Black Cherry - A Complete Guide To Growing, Care, And Uses The Black Cherry is a deciduous hardwood tree native to North America. Scientifically known as Prunus serotina, it will grow 80' tall in full sun and well draining soil. Blooming numerous white... CONTINUE READING link to Aromatic Aster - A Complete Guide For Growing And Care Aromatic Aster - A Complete Guide For Growing And Care Aromatic Aster is a herbaceous perennial native to North America. Scientifically known as Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, it grows 2-3' tall by 2-3' wide in full sun and dry to medium-moist soil. One... CONTINUE READING ABOUT US Welcome to Growit Buildit! We are a husband and wife duo. He with a love & extensive self-taught knowledge of NATIVE PLANTS, GARDENING, and woodworking. Her with a love of HOME DECOR DIY. We hope to provide you with handy how-tos to start or enhance your own home gardens, as well as provide you with plans on how to make some popular home decor projects, both easily & inexpensively. No need for fancy tools or big budgets! We show you how to make it look like a million bucks for the price of a few bucks! READ MORE Search for: Recommended 

How To Make Micro Prairie Read More  Reasons You Shouldn’t Make Raised Bed Garden Read More  How to Test Soil Drainage at Home Read More Recommended 

Testing Soil Texture by Hand – The Soil Ribbon Test  How To Start A Native Plant Garden From Scratch Recommended 

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

Liatris Spicata 101 – Complete Guide to Blazing Star  How To Make Micro Prairie Recommended 

Reasons You Shouldn’t Make Raised Bed Garden  How to Test Soil Drainage at Home Recommended 

Silver Maple Tree, A Complete Profile To Acer saccharinum  Wild Onion Grass & Wild Garlic – Identification and Control Soil Texture Analysis I) Introduction The term soil texture is referred as the composition of sand, silt and clay that makes up the soil. The size of the sand particles differs from the silt particles and same goes to the clay particles. Sand particles are relatively much larger compared to silt and clay particles.

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

Using the data so far, I can figure out the percentage of each type of soil particle by measuring how high the layer is and dividing by the height of all the soil in the jar. My soil is 29% sand, 64% silt, and 7% clay. Next I use a soil texture triangle to figure out what type of soil I have. I start at 29% sand on the bottom of the triangle, then follow that line up and to the left at an angle until I reach the line for 64% silt and 7% clay. I put a red dot at the result --- a silt loam. Reading the Results As the sand particles are the heaviest they will sink to the bottom first, followed by silt then clay. The thickness of each layer will help to determine how much of each is contained in your soil. As you can see from the results of this soil sample taken from a community garden and marked on the jar, a layer of sand has settled at the bottom, then a layer of silt, followed by a small layer of clay at the top. We have estimated that this sample is 65% sand, 30% silt and 10% clay. If you follow the lines in the soil texture chart below to cross reference, you can see that the soil sample is considered sandy loam. Background Soil composition is based on how much and what types of minerals are present. Generally, knowing the amount of sand, silt, and clay will give you a good estimate of your soil’s texture and type. Sandy soil has large particles that allow plenty of space for air and water to disperse. Consequently, it cannot hold water and valuable nutrients for very long and drains quickly. Plants, like many wildflowers, that have adapted to dry, well-drained soils will work best in this type. Clay is much denser and has tiny particles which allow it to hold water and nutrients well. It releases water very slowly. Plants that like ‘wet-feet’ or having their roots regularly flooded will prefer this type of soil. Silt falls somewhere in between sand and clay. It holds water better than sand but not as well as clay. Most soils have some mix of all three types; a You can't have 4 layers :-) There will only always be 3 as that is how many different types of soil particles there are - sand, silt and clay. ALL sand will precipitate out together; so will all the silt and all the clay. The only other possible layers would be whatever water remains after the precipitation of the 3 different soil particles and any organic matter, which will float on top. But those are not soil particle layers :-) It is often difficult to read the levels in the jar clearly and that gets even more complicated when represented only by a photo. And a photo that does not show the jar in its entirety!

I see what looks to be OM floating at the top above the lightest colored level right above where you have drawn the line for level 3 ...... is that the top of the water level? If not, an you show a photo that illustrates clearly where the top of the water level is? I won't swear to it long distance but to me - and I've done this test many, many times - layer 1 is the sand, layer 2 is the silt and layer 3 is either clay (which seems unlikely given the source) or just muddied water. I would also just add that testing of an imported soil used to fill raised beds is typically unnecessary. Soil tests are usually reserved for the indigenous, inground soil - what already exists in the garden. Imported, engineered soils generally already have decent drainage just by virtue of the fact that they are engineered or mixed/prepared away from their natural occurrence and to specific requirements. And a raised bed will always offer better drainage than any inground soil just by virtue of its elevation. “ With a jar soil test, the soil particles will always particulate out by size. Sand - the largest particles - will always be the bottom/lowest level, followed by silt (next largest) then with clay (the finest particle size) as the top level. Water and whatever organic matter might be present in the mix will be the remaining material, usually with the OM floating on the top. loamy” soil has approximately equal amounts of silt, sand, and clay. Clay What Does My Soil Texture Mean? Different soil types behave differently. Clay Soils Soils higher in clay tend to be high in nutrients and hold water well. Unfortunately, they can also be hard to dig in, too dense for large roots to grow, and tend to become waterlogged. Sandy Soils Sandy soils are very easy to dig in and allow for easy growth of large roots (think big carrots). They also drain well and warm up quickly in the spring. Unfortunately, sandy soil doesn’t hold nutrients or water well, meaning plants grown in them may suffer from nutrient deficiencies and drought.

Silty Soils Silty soils are in between sand and clay. They tend to have more nutrients than sandy soils and hold water better but are still easier to cultivate and dig than clay soil. Unfortunately, silty soils compact easily and tend to form a crust. They also have poor water filtration. How Do I Change My Soil Texture? Most of us would love it if we got ‘loam’ as a result, but it’s unlikely we will. Our region and the land’s history will largely determine the soil we get to begin working with. The best amendment for any soil type is organic matter. You can add organic matter to your soil through composting, cover cropping, mulching, and manures. Be careful if you decide to add other amendments like sand or gypsum. These can make soil problems worse when added incorrectly. There’s a lot to learn about soil, but understanding soil texture is an excellent start to improving your garden. Use the jar test to learn about your soil texture today! takes 2 days to settle out. The top looks like 70% sand, 30% silt, and maybe some clay. You will need to wait 2 days to see if there is much clay, but it doesn't look like it. Is the second picture at 2 minutes, 2 hours, or 2 days? If at 2 days, it looks similar to the first sample. If you mark the levels at 2 minutes and 2 hours it will help. Both look like sandy loams. You have good soil structure, peds, and root penetration. The soil composition testing is less important than the lab nutrient testing, but if you are 85% sand, then nutrients won't stay in the soil as long so you would consider applying half as much twice as often. If you are a sandy loam, that is a very good soil for grass. Even with my confusion about what picture is what, I am leaning toward a sandy loam or loamy sand. It probably doesn't make much difference in management. https://extension.unl.edu/statewi de/lincolnmcpherson/Soil %20Texture%20Analysis

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

%20%E2%80%9CThe%20Jar %20Test%E2%80%9D.pdf Soil texture Soil texture (such as loam, sandy loam or clay) refers to the proportion of sand, silt and clay sized particles that make up the mineral fraction of the soil. For example, light soil refers to a soil high in sand relative to clay, while heavy soils are made up largely of clay. View larger image A soil texture triangle showing soil textures as determined by the proportion of sand, silt and clay Texture is important because it influences:

 the amount of water the soil can hold  the rate of water movement through the soil  how workable and fertile the soil is. For example, sand is well aerated but does not hold much water and is low in nutrients. Clay soils generally hold more water, and are better at supplying nutrients. Texture often changes with depth so roots have to cope with different conditions as they penetrate the soil. A soil can be classified according to the way the texture changes with depth. The 3 profile types are:  uniform—same texture throughout the soil profile  texture-contrast—abrupt texture change between the topsoil and subsoil  gradational—texture gradually increases down the soil profile. How to determine soil texture 1. Take about 2 tablespoons of soil in one hand and add water, drop by drop, while working the soil until it reaches a sticky consistency. 2. Squeeze the wetted soil between thumb and forefinger to form a flat ribbon. 3. Determine the texture based on the length of the ribbon that can be formed without breaking—see following table. Texture Length of ribbon (mm) Soil properties and management implications Sandy <15  Little resistance to root growth  High infiltration rate  Low plant available water Sandy loam 15–25  Root growth not restricted, but highly susceptible to mechanical compaction  May be hard setting  Moderate infiltration rate  Moderate plant available water

Texture Length of ribbon (mm) Soil properties and management implications Loam 25  Root growth not restricted  Moderately susceptible to mechanical compaction  Moderate plant available water  Moderate infiltration rate Silty loam 25  Root growth not restricted  Moderately susceptible to mechanical compaction  Moderate plant available water  Low to moderate infiltration rate Clay loam 40–50  Root growth not restricted  Moderately susceptible to mechanical compaction  Moderate to high plant available water Clay 50–75  Root growth frequently restricted  Moderately to highly susceptible to mechanical compaction  Some restriction on water movement leading to periodic waterlogging  Moderate to high plant available water Heavy clay >75  Root growth moderately to severely restricted  High susceptibility to mechanical compaction

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

Texture Length of ribbon (mm) Soil properties and management implications  Water drains very slowly except in self-mulching soils Source: Soil Constraints and Management Package Soil structure Soil structure refers to the way soil particles group together to form aggregates (or peds). These aggregates vary in size and shape from small crumbs through to large blocks. How soil particles may be arranged Some soils resemble a large, solid, featureless mass—referred to as massive—and have little or no structure. For example, very sandy soils have no structure because sand grains do not cling together. Good soils fit in between the two extremes. A well-structured soil breaks up easily into peds with a definite shape (such as granular or blocky) and size (1–60mm). Good structure is important, as it allows water to soak into the soil and excess water to drain away. It also allows air movement through the soil. Soil, air and water are vital for healthy plant growth and nutrient supply.

Examples of different types of soil structure: a) blocky, b) columnar, c) massive, d) single grain, e) platy. Soil peds Peds are made up of mineral particles (clay, silt, sand) and organic matter. Peds are held together by the electrical charges on the surfaces of the minerals and organic matter . Although clay particles are small, they have large surface areas. For example the surface on the clay in a teaspoon of black cracking clay soil is equal to the surface area of a tennis court. Such clays and soils with a lot of organic matter are more likely to form strong peds. Sandy soils or soils with little organic matter often have little or no ped development. Peds are described by their shape—for example: blocky, columnar, massive, single grain or platy. Soil colour

Mosaic of different soil colours across Queensland landscapes. The colour of the soil is usually the first thing people notice. Mostly this is just the topsoil but it does not reflect the entire soil. The topsoil is usually darker than lower layers (or horizons) because this is where organic matter accumulates. Soil colour is usually due to 3 main pigments:  black—from organic matter  red—from iron and aluminium oxides  white—from silicates and salt. Colour can be a useful indicator of some of the general properties of a soil, as well as some of the chemical processes that are occurring beneath the surface. Soil colour Soil types and characteristics Typical management implications Black These soils are often associated with high levels of organic matter (peats).  waterlogging or drainage problems  low pH  high denitrification Black Vertosols (cracking  workability and tillage

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

Soil colour Soil types and characteristics Typical management implications clay soils) problems White/pale/bleached These soils are often referred to as bleached or 'washed out'. The iron and manganese particles have been leached out due to high amounts of rainfall or drainage.  leaching of nutrients  low plant available water Red This colour indicates good drainage. Iron found within the soil is oxidised more readily due to the higher oxygen content. This causes the soil to develop a 'rusty' colour. The colour can be darker due to organic  high phosphorus fixation  low plant available water

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

Soil colour Soil types and characteristics Typical management implications matter. Yellow to yellow- brown These soils often have poorer drainage than red soils. The iron compounds in these soils are in a hydrated form and therefore do not produce the 'rusty' colour.  moderate phosphorus fixation  low plant available water  compaction Brown Soils associated with moderate organic matter level and iron oxides.  low to moderate phosphorus fixation  low to moderate plant available water Gleyed/grey/green These soils are associated with very poor drainage or waterlogging. The lack of air in these  waterlogging or drainage problems  high denitrification risk  methane emission hazard

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

Soil colour Soil types and characteristics Typical management implications soils provides conditions for iron and manganese to form compounds that give these soils their colour. Soil pH Soils can be naturally acid or alkaline, and this can be measured by testing their pH value. Having the correct pH is important for healthy plant growth. Being aware of the long-term effects of different soil management practices on soil pH is also important. Research has demonstrated that some agricultural practices significantly alter soil pH.

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

View larger image The range of pH values found in soils. What is pH? Soil pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. A pH value is actually a measure of hydrogen ion concentration. Because hydrogen ion concentration varies over a wide range, a logarithmic scale (pH) is used: for a pH decrease of 1, the acidity increases by a factor of 10. It is a ‘reverse’ scale in that a very acid soil has a low pH and a high hydrogen ion concentration. Therefore, at high (alkaline) pH values, the hydrogen ion concentration is low. Most soils have pH values between 3.5 and 10. In higher rainfall areas the natural pH of soils typically ranges from 5 to 7, while in drier areas the range is 6.5 to 9. Soils can be classified according to their pH value:

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

 6.5 to 7.5—neutral  over 7.5—alkaline  less than 6.5—acidic, and soils with pH less than 5.5 are considered strongly acidic. Acid sulfate soils can have extremely acidic pH values (pH less than 4). Origins Natural soil pH depends on the rock from which the soil was formed (parent material) and the weathering processes that acted on it—for example climate, vegetation, topography and time. These processes tend to cause a lowering of pH (increase in acidity) over time. Some agricultural activities can also accelerate the acidification process. Effects Soil pH affects the amount of nutrients and chemicals that are soluble in soil water , and therefore the amount of nutrients available to plants. Some nutrients are more available under acid conditions while others are more available under alkaline conditions. However, most mineral nutrients are readily available to plants when soil pH is near neutral. The development of strongly acidic soils (less than 5.5 pH) can result in poor plant growth as a result of one or more of the following factors:  aluminium toxicity  manganese toxicity  calcium deficiency  magnesium deficiency  low levels of essential plant nutrients such as phosphorus and molybdenum. Alkaline soils may have problems with deficiencies of nutrients such as zinc, copper, boron and manganese. Soils with an extremely alkaline pH (greater than 9) are likely to have high levels of sodium. The correct balance is where the soil pH is between 5.5 and 7.5, so every effort should be taken to check soil pH levels regularly. Early identification of soil pH problems is important as it can be both costly and difficult to correct long-term nutrient deficiencies. Changing soil pH Some fertilisers can change soil pH and increase or reduce the amount of nutrients available to plants.

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

Fertilisers such as crushed sulfur and some ammonium-based nitrogen fertilisers lower pH and make soil more acid. They are, therefore, useful for soils with problems caused by high pH. Lime and dolomite When soils are too acidic for a particular crop, lime or dolomite can be used to increase the pH to the desired level. The amount of lime or dolomite required to correct an acidic pH will vary from soil to soil. Soils with high organic matter and clay content will be more resistant to changes in pH and will require larger application rates. Therefore soil pH, while indicating the need for lime, is not a reliable guide as to how much lime is required. Trials Field trials, in which good quality lime was cultivated into the soil surface to a depth of 0.1m, have been undertaken on a number of acidic soils in Queensland. Across all soils, for every tonne of lime added per hectare, soil pH increased from 0.1 to 0.8 pH units. The most common change was an increase of 0.2 to 0.3 pH units. The larger pH increases were obtained on sandy soils with low organic matter content. Commercial applications Typical commercial application rates of around 2 tonnes of lime per hectare are therefore likely to increase the pH by only about 0.5 of a pH unit. However, these small pH increases are often enough to result in an increased yield. Liming tropical and subtropical acidic soils usually results in an increase in their capacity to hold nutrients. This is a benefit that is not often realised. Measurement Inexpensive and easy-to-use field kits are available to measure soil pH—these provide only an approximate soil pH value. Laboratory testing is required to obtain an accurate pH value. Most Queensland laboratories use a 1:5 (soil:water) suspension method to determine pH. However, some laboratories may use different testing methods, so professional advice should be sought when interpreting test results and planning management strategies.

Your preview ends here

Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version

Access to all documents
Unlimited textbook solutions
24/7 expert homework help

Soil texture

Related Documents