Waves Lab Full (1)
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Broward College *
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ESC1000L
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Geography
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Dec 6, 2023
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6
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Lab 11: Waves Lab
There are two principal types of currents that occur in our oceans: surface currents, which
usually have a depth of several hundred meters and are driven by global wind patterns,
and deep currents, which move slowly at greater depths beneath the ocean surface and are
driven primarily by differences in water density.
Part 1: Shallow Water Waves
Objective:
Students will understand the behavior of shallow water waves in a simulated
laboratory environment, at various water depths.
Aside from the currents driven by seismic activity, a majority of the wave activity we see
on the surface of lakes and oceans are driven by wind. Wind-generated waves represent
mechanical energy that has been transferred to the surface of water. The size of a wind-
generated wave is determined by a few major factors – the velocity of the wind, the
length of time the wind is blowing and the distance over which the wind has been in
contact with the surface of the water (referred to as fetch).
Regardless of wave type, all waves have some basic features in common. The “anatomy”
of a wave consists of the
crest
, which is the “peak” or highest point of a wave, the
trough
, which is the “valley” or lowest point of a wave, the
wavelength
, which is the
distance between two successive crests or troughs, the
wave height
, which is the vertical
distance between the crest and trough, the
wave period
, which is the time required for
two successive points of waves (two crests or two troughs) to pass a fixed point, and the
amplitude
, which is the vertical distance between the baseline (sea level) and a crest or a
trough.
Waves change behavior are they approach the shore. Waves rotate in a circular motion
and can be interrupted by the floor. This is referred to as ‘feeling bottom,’ and it occurs
when the water is at a depth that is approximately half of the wavelength of the circular
water movement of the wave. When waves feel bottom, they increase in wave height and
decrease in wavelength (similar to the compression of an accordion). As waves enter
environments with this depth, then they are referred to as shallow water waves.
In this environment, wave speed is dependent solely on depth using the formula:
(the
theoretical value):
C =
where:
C = wave speed
g = gravitational acceleration (9.8 m/s
2
or 980 cm/s
2
)
d = depth
The calculation for wave speed in centimeters can be recalculated as:
31.3*
√
d
Part 1 Materials:
Wave tank, water, meter stick, ruler, stopwatch, calculator
Procedure:
•
Measure the inside length of the wave tank to the nearest centimeter (it should be
close to 70 centimeters in length).
•
Multiply this value by 2 (Length x 2) to get the total measurement length, as we
will be measuring the wave as it travels to the end and back again.
•
Using a ruler, pour a measured height of .5 cm of water into the tank. Measure
with the ruler in the center of the tank to improve accuracy.
•
Lift the tank by two inches on one end from the surface of the table. Allow the
water to settle and then firmly place the tank down on the table. This will generate
a wave.
•
Wait for the wave to reach one end of the tank BEFORE starting measurement,
then start the timer and stop it once the wave has hit two more walls (one
direction and back again after the initial waiting period).
•
Repeat this process five times and record your data in the five trial lines. Find the
average of your dataset.
•
Increase the water height to 1.0 cm, 1.5 cm, 2.0 cm, and 2.5 cm for each set of
trials and repeat steps 4-6.
•
Calculate the average speed for each average using the formula: speed = distance /
time (where distance was Length x 2).
Please show at least two of your
calculations.
•
Calculate the percent error for each average speed measurement using the
theoretical formula value (Percent error = theoretical value – measured value /
theoretical value x100). Theoretical value is calculated by inserting the
standardized depth measurements into the equation above (i.e., 0.5cm, 1.0cm,
etc.).
•
Please show at least two of each of your calculations.
Data Tables
Depth (d) in Centimeters
Time (s)
.5 cm
1 cm
1.5 cm
2 cm
2.5 cm
1
6.27
5.08
4.22
3.19
2
6.20
5.07
4.09
3.28
3
6.18
5.13
4.15
3.30
4
6.23
5.17
4.16
3.29
5
6.23
5.06
4.08
3.35
Average Time
6.22
5.1
4.14
3.28
Average Speed
22.5
27.4
33.8
42.6
Percent Error
22.11
31.29
38.33
44.26
Calculations:
Average speed for .5cm= 140/6.22=22.5
Average speed for 1cm=140/5.1=27.4
Average speed for 1.5cm=140/4.14=33.8
Average speed for 2cm=140/3.28=42.6
Percent error for .5cm:
theoretical value=
√
980x0.5=22.13
measured value =22.5
Percent error=22.13-22.5/22.13x100=22.11
Percent error for 1cm:
theoretical value=
√
980x1=31.3
measured value = 27.4
Percent error=31.3-27.4/31.3x100=31.29
Percent error for 1.5cm:
theoretical value=
√
980x1.5=38.34
measured value=33.8
Percent error=38.34-33.8/38.34x100=38.33
Percent error for 2cm:
theoretical value=
√
980x2=44.27
measured value=42.6
Percent error=44.27-42.6/44.27x100=44.26
Analysis:
What are the impacts of water depth on the speed of waves?
As the water depth increase, the speed of waves also increase.
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How did your results compare to the theoretical results? What factors might have
contributed to this variation?
My results is less than the theoretical results , factors that might have contributed to this
variation including the potential power of holding the water tank and the texture of the
water tank.
Part 2: Ocean Density Currents
Objective:
Students will understand the way that water moves at depth, beneath the
surface of the ocean.
Water density is directly impacted by changes in temperature and salinity. Large amounts
of dissolved solids within ocean water make it denser than pure freshwater, as dissolved
solids add mass to the water. Salinity is the term used to describe the solids that are
dissolved in seawater and are expressed as units of ‘parts per thousand.’ This represents
the number of grams of dissolved solids in one kilogram of seawater. As salinity of
seawater increases, so does the density
Most of the surface water in the world ocean ranges from 33-36 ppt, though salinity can
be locally impacted by the amount of freshwater and additional salts that are contributed
to the sea by runoff, by the freezing and melting of icebergs and pack ice, and by changes
in the rate of evaporation.
Temperature also plays a role in the density of ocean water, as the density increases as the
water grows colder. The temperature of ocean water is primarily determined by exposure
to infrared radiation received from sunlight. The densest ocean water is found in the polar
regions, which experience little to no direct sunlight from season to season, and the least
dense ocean water is found around equatorial regions.
When large masses of water that have different densities meet, they typically do not mix.
At these locations, deep ocean currents are produced as cold, dense, polar water sinks and
flows beneath the warm, less dense ocean waters that originate near the equator. Deep
ocean currents move slowly and in a diffuse manner.
Part 2 Materials:
Clear plastic box, beaker (50 ml), wood block, pipettes, food coloring,
water (hot and cold), ice cubes, salt, teaspoon
Procedure:
•
Set up the clear plastic box – place the block of wood under one end, so that it is
tilted. Fill the opposite end with about 800ml of room temperature water. Let the
water become calm before proceeding.
•
Place 25ml of room temperature water into a beaker. Add one teaspoon of salt and
one drop of yellow food coloring to the water and stir until the salt dissolves.
Slowly pour the solution into the raised end of the box and then observe what
happens to the solution.
•
Place 25ml of ice water into a beaker and stir in blue food color. Slowly pour the
solution into the raised end of the box and then observe what happens to the
solution.
•
Rinse your beaker and place 25ml of hot water into the beaker. Stir in one drop of
red food coloring. Slowly pour the solution into the raised end of the box and then
observe what happens to the solution.
Write your observations so far. What happened during steps 2-4?
Before adding green color water in the tank, red color is the top layer of water, blue in the
middle layer and yellow is the bottom layer, after green color was added, yellow and
green color were mixed together at the bottom layer.
•
Add a spoonful of salt and a drop of green food coloring to 25ml of ice water. Stir
until the salt dissolves. Slowly pour the solution into the raised end of the box and
then observe what happens to the solution.
•
Complete the diagram below, by coloring it based on your observations (look at
the tank from the side).
Analysis:
•
Describe the materials used in terms of their density.
Density of salt water of room temperature and icy salt water are higher than ice water and
hot water, thats why they sink in to the bottom
•
How would an increase in evaporation impact the density of ocean water?
Evaporation removes fresh water, causing density to increase, making the remaining
seawater have more salt in it.
•
The salinity of the Mediterranean Sea is about 40 ppt, while the salinity of the
Atlantic Ocean is about 35 ppt. Why do you think this is the case? How would
this impact your ability to float in each setting?
I think it is related to the weather, the temparture in Mediterranean Sea is higher than the
Atlantic Ocean, that's why there has a higher evaporation rate than the Atlantic Ocean and
this is the case. So it is much easier to float in the Mediterranean Sea than in the Atlantic
Ocean.
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