a major river flowing into the ocean isExercises1. The steepness of a wave is described with the ratioof the wave height to wavelength (in other words,wave steepness = wave height wavelength). Whenthe steepness is greater than 1/7, the wave breaks.a. What is the maximum wave height for aSIwavelength of 8 meters?b. What is the maximum wave height for ameterswavelength of 21 meters?c. If a breaking wave is 2 meters high, what is thewavelength?metersmeters592

The waves are composed of crest and troughs, the higher parts are crest and the lower are troughs. The vertical distance between the highest part and lowest part of the wave is called wave height, H. The horizontal distance from crest to crest or trough to trough is called wavelength, L. The wave steepness is the ratio that existed between the wave height and wavelength. Wave steepness = Wave height HWavelength L When this ratio exceeds the value of 17 the wave breaks due to wave can't support itself due to increase in wave steepness. This ratio also dictates the maximum height of a wave. a) Here wave length = 8m Wave steepness at maximum wave height = 17=0.1429 Wave steepness = Wave height HWavelength L 0.1429=Wave height H8 Maximum wave height H = 0.1429×8 = 1.1429 So the maximum wave height for the wavelength of 8 m is 1.1429 m. b) a) Here wave length = 21m Wave steepness at maximum wave height = 17=0.1429 Wave steepness = Wave height HWavelength L 0.1429=Wave height H21 Maximum wave height H = 0.1429×21 = 3.0009 So the maximum wave height for the wavelength of 21 m is 3.0009 m. c) Breaking wave height, H =2m Wave steepness at maximum wave height = 17=0.1429 Wave steepness = Wave height HWavelength L 0.1429 = 2Wavelength Wavelength, L = 20.1429 = 13.9958m So the wavelength of the breaking waves at a wave height of 2 m is 13.9958 m. Answer: a) Wave height, H = 1.14 m b) Wave height, H = 3.00 m c) Wavelength, L =14 m