Describe the physical changes that occur to a wave’s wave speed (S), wavelength (L), height (H), and wave steepness (H/L) as the wave moves across progressively shallower water to break on the shore.
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Describe the physical changes that occur to a wave’s wave speed (S), wavelength (L), height (H), and wave steepness (H/L) as the wave moves across progressively shallower water to break on the shore. |
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