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5. Extend the crest of the wave A2-B2 shoreward, remembering that wave crests are slowed more and more as they pass the wave base and move into ever-shallower water. 6. Draw the trace of the wave at a time 5 seconds later and at times 10 and 15 seconds later. 7. Waves will break at a water depth between 5 and 10 feet. Indicate on the preceding figure the location of surf along each refracting wave that you have drawn.

5. Extend the crest of the wave A2-B2 shoreward, remembering that wave crests are slowed more and more as they pass the wave base and move into ever-shallower water. 6. Draw the trace of the wave at a time 5 seconds later and at times 10 and 15 seconds later. 7. Waves will break at a water depth between 5 and 10 feet. Indicate on the preceding figure the location of surf along each refracting wave that you have drawn.

Applications and Investigations in Earth Science (9th Edition)
Applications and Investigations in Earth Science (9th Edition)
9th Edition
ISBN:9780134746241
Author:Edward J. Tarbuck, Frederick K. Lutgens, Dennis G. Tasa
Publisher:Edward J. Tarbuck, Frederick K. Lutgens, Dennis G. Tasa
Chapter1: The Study Of Minerals
Section: Chapter Questions
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Longshore Currents Longshore currents, also called littoral currents, flow parallel to the shore, usually just shoreward of the surf zone. They occur as waves hit the shore zone at an oblique angle. Excess water piles up in the surf zone and must escape. To do this the water flows parallel to the shore in the direction in which the wave approaches the land. The resulting currents become important agents in moving material along the shore and are instrumental both in eroding and nourishing beaches. -10 -15. -20. 25 -30 -35... 50 Feet 100 Shoreline contours in feet Submarine 4 - 8 8 8 Wave crest 220 Wave crest B₂ B₁ A 8...
Transcribed Image Text:Longshore Currents Longshore currents, also called littoral currents, flow parallel to the shore, usually just shoreward of the surf zone. They occur as waves hit the shore zone at an oblique angle. Excess water piles up in the surf zone and must escape. To do this the water flows parallel to the shore in the direction in which the wave approaches the land. The resulting currents become important agents in moving material along the shore and are instrumental both in eroding and nourishing beaches. -10 -15. -20. 25 -30 -35... 50 Feet 100 Shoreline contours in feet Submarine 4 - 8 8 8 Wave crest 220 Wave crest B₂ B₁ A 8...
2. What is the depth at which waves begin to "feel the bottom"? Depth of wave base=25ft 3. Label the wave base contour on the figure. 4. These waves in deep water approach shore at an angle of 45°. How long does it take the wave crest at A1-B1 to advance to the position at A2-B2? The segment A2-B2 has been drawn for you. 5. Extend the crest of the wave A2-B2 shoreward, remembering that wave crests are slowed more and more as they pass the wave base and move into ever-shallower water. 6. Draw the trace of the wave at a time 5 seconds later and at times 10 and 15 seconds later. 7. Waves will break at a water depth between 5 and 10 feet. Indicate on the preceding figure the location of surf along each refracting wave that you have drawn. 8. At A2, an arrow is drawn perpendicular to and pointing in the direction of the wave movement. Place similar arrows along the shoreward section of this wave crest at points where it reaches depths of 15, 10, and 5 feet. 9. What should happen to the water in the surf zone thrown against the shore at an angle, represented by the arrows you have drawn on the wave crest? 10. With an arrow, show the location and direction of the longshore current. Hurricane Beach Erosion, Galveston, Texas Introduction Beaches change seasonally in response to wave energy reaching them. During stormy seasons, large waves carry sand offshore. The beach is cut back and lowered. Generally, smaller waves move sand back onto the beaches, widening them and building them upward. Galveston, Texas, provides an example. Galveston, like Miami Beach, Florida, and Atlantic City, New Jersey, is built on a barrier island. On September 8, 1900, a hurricane hit the island. It all but leveled Galveston and at least 6,000 people died. Texas City Reach
Transcribed Image Text:2. What is the depth at which waves begin to "feel the bottom"? Depth of wave base=25ft 3. Label the wave base contour on the figure. 4. These waves in deep water approach shore at an angle of 45°. How long does it take the wave crest at A1-B1 to advance to the position at A2-B2? The segment A2-B2 has been drawn for you. 5. Extend the crest of the wave A2-B2 shoreward, remembering that wave crests are slowed more and more as they pass the wave base and move into ever-shallower water. 6. Draw the trace of the wave at a time 5 seconds later and at times 10 and 15 seconds later. 7. Waves will break at a water depth between 5 and 10 feet. Indicate on the preceding figure the location of surf along each refracting wave that you have drawn. 8. At A2, an arrow is drawn perpendicular to and pointing in the direction of the wave movement. Place similar arrows along the shoreward section of this wave crest at points where it reaches depths of 15, 10, and 5 feet. 9. What should happen to the water in the surf zone thrown against the shore at an angle, represented by the arrows you have drawn on the wave crest? 10. With an arrow, show the location and direction of the longshore current. Hurricane Beach Erosion, Galveston, Texas Introduction Beaches change seasonally in response to wave energy reaching them. During stormy seasons, large waves carry sand offshore. The beach is cut back and lowered. Generally, smaller waves move sand back onto the beaches, widening them and building them upward. Galveston, Texas, provides an example. Galveston, like Miami Beach, Florida, and Atlantic City, New Jersey, is built on a barrier island. On September 8, 1900, a hurricane hit the island. It all but leveled Galveston and at least 6,000 people died. Texas City Reach
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