Ocean 10 Lab #8
pdf
keyboard_arrow_up
School
Mt San Antonio College *
*We aren’t endorsed by this school
Course
10
Subject
Geography
Date
Dec 6, 2023
Type
Pages
11
Uploaded by MagistrateWren2165
I~
.
s
——e
Ocean
Waves
and
Tides
Lab
The
content
of
this
lab
exercise
was
modified
from
content
provided
by
Professors
Lackey
and
Anders
at
Mt.
SAC,
in
addition
to
Teachers
Pay
Teachers.
Overview
Ocean
waves
are
pulses
of
energy
that
move
across
the
surface
of
the
ocean
(surface
waves)
or
at
depth
(internal
waves).
Surface
waves
are
caused
by
wind,
glacial
melt,
underwater
landslides,
asteroid
impact,
offshore
earthquakes
(these
waves
are
called
tsunami),
or
are
generated
due
to
the
Moon’s
gravity
(these
waves
are
called
tides).
Internal
waves
are
caused
by
differences
in
deep
water
current
flow,
usually
due
to
temperature,
density
and
salinity
conditions
(these
are
plotted
as
graphs,
and
the
boundaries
are
referred
to
as
thermoclines,
haloclines
and
pycnoclines).
All
waveforms
have
the
same
physical
characteristics.
These
include
the
crest—the
highest
point
of
the
waveform,
the
trough—the
lowest
point
of
the
waveform,
the
wavelength—the
distance
between
two
crests/troughs,
the
wave
height,
or
amplitude—the
difference
between
the
height
of
the
crest
and
trough,
and
the
period—the
amount
of
time
taken
for
two
successive
waves
to
pass
a
fixed
point.
Wind
generated
waves
have
a
different
period,
height
and
wavelength
as
compared
with
tsunami
or
tide
generated
waves,
as
we
will
investigate
in
the
exercises
on
the
next
few
pages.
Water
waves
move
not
only
progressively—creating
a
series
of
crests
and
troughs
that
move
laterally
with
energy
dispersal—but
also
generate
a
continuous
circular
flow,
termed
orbital
motion.
The
combined
effect
of
orbital
motion
and
the
forward
motion
of
waves
ultimately
causes
floating
objects
to
advance
in
the
direction
of
wave
travel.
The
wave
base
is
the
depth
where
the
orbital
motion
stops;
it
is
equal
to
%
wavelength
(Figure
1).
Avade
wond
5—5(,(\(\‘13
9
A\
Avbanc
e
:
——
direction
of
wave
travel
C)prpfirre,s.‘vc
lj
Swi¥+
o
<+——
wavelength
(L
or
A)
from
crest-to-crest
————»
5
4
3
2
1
height
or
amplitude
\
wave
orbital
=
N
motion
J
fre
sé's“'c
trough
average
still
water
level
O
O
X
O
O
O
trough
passes
overhead
crest
passes
Figure
1.
Ocean waves
and
their
physical
characteristics:
crest,
trough,
height,
length
and
orbital
motion.
‘—W
2
R
A
St
L
Wave
Anatomy
and
Behavior
E
T(oqé;/'
\
Cs
F
Open
ocean
-
Approaching
shore
—
SR
-
.l.
’
Surf
I
,-
waves
with
constant
waves
touch
bottom
{breakers
form)
y
-
Figure
2.
A
3D
cross
section
of
ocean
waves
traveling
from
left
to
right.
Essential
wave
parts
are
marked
as
A
through
F
(modified from
Tarbuck,
Lutgens,
Pinzke,
1997,
Applications
and
Investigations
in
Earth
Science,
p.
157).
Figure
2
above
shows
that
wavelength
of
open
ocean
waves
remains
constant
as
long
as
wave
base
does
not
make
contact
with
the
sea
bottom.
Such
waves
are
called
deep-water
waves.
Deep-water
waves
eventually
become
shallow-water
waves
as
they
travel
toward
continents
and
encounter
shallowing
water
over
the
continental
shelf.
Once
wave
base
"feels"
the
sea
bottom,
an
open-ocean,
deep-water
wave
transforms
into
a
shallow-water
wave.
Ultimately,
ocean
waves
arrive
at
the
shallowest
depths
of
the
ocean
at
beaches.
Here,
they
build-up
in
height,
become
unstable,
and
collapse
forward,
breaking.
Orbital
motion
is
then
converted
to
forward
motion
as
water
rushes
up
the
beach
face
(also
known
as
swash
zone
and
foreshore)
then
back
down
the
beach
face
as
backwash.
Overview
and
Wave
Behavior
Questions
1.
Match
the
lettered
parts
of
ocean
waves
(A
through
F)
in
Figure
2
above
with
the
names
below.
e
Wave
Crest:
Wave
Length:
Orbital
Motion:
+
Wave
Trough:
€
Wave
Height:
D
Wave
Base:
2.
Figure
2
illustrates
that
after
wave
base
makes
contact
with
the
sea
bottom,
wave
velocity
decreases.
Wave
height
and
wavelength
are
affected
as
well.
What
change
in
wave
height
and
wavelength
can
you
observe
in
Figure
2?'
e
Change
in
wave
height:
\wo\ve.
hfi‘\%\(\\
increases
B
*
Change
in
wavelength:
{,
ave_
'\.Qy\?j\/\
C\C(,f
coseS
.
-
Ve
M‘;a;ffé
WMAKES
CONTOCT
Lot
oot
rom
/.
‘:’e"{D
iy
A
F
TS
LY
e
‘
S.hml,t-“wflghtlne(hammmVu»fi@;)annectsaflrhe
centers
of
the
wave
orbitals
for
all
the
waves
pictured.
DY
aLpV\
4.
To
further
help
you
understand
why
ocean
waves
break,
examine
the
breaking
wave
farthest
to
the
right.
How
is
the
position
of
the
bottom-most
orbital
different
from
the
position
of
orbitals
above
it?
QRN
vodionS
1S
detre®ing
Aownwards
¥rom
the
Sor
Face.
Wt
W
of
Ane
Sulfoce
ywortteR
1S
highy
Compaved
QY
e
deptn.
Wen
gt
fncceaseS
ix
\oreates,
Wave
Height
Most
ocean
waves
are
created
by
the
wind.
Three
factors
control
the
height
of
deep-
water
waves:
1)
Wind
speed
-
the
faster
the
wind
blows
the
higher
the
waves
become
2)
Wind
duration
—
the
longer
the
wind
blows
across
the
ocean
surface,
the
higher
the
waves
become
3)
Wind
fetch
(fetch
is
the
surface
distance
of
the
ocean
across
which
the
wind
blows)
—
the
greater
the
fetch
the
higher
the
waves
become
There
is
a
maximum
height
that
waves
will
reach,
such
that
above
a
certain
wind
speed,
duration,
and
fetch,
more
waves
will
be
created
but
the
increase
in
wave
height
stops.
Figure
3
plots
wave
height
against
fetch.
The
curve
represents
the
amount
of
time,
in
hours,
that
wave
height
lasts
(e.g.,
15
h=15
hours).
wn
»
W
N
Wave
height,
H,
In
meters
-
00
200
400
600
800
1000
Fetch,
F,
in
kilometers
Figure
3.
Graph
of
wave
height
(y-axis)
vs.
wind
fetch
(x-axis)
showing
the
change
in
wave
height
for
changes
in
wind
duration
in
increments
of
5
hours.
This
graph
is
from
Thurman
and
Savin,
1995,
Laboratory
Exercises
in
Oceanography,
p.
91.
Your preview ends here
Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version
- Access to all documents
- Unlimited textbook solutions
- 24/7 expert homework help
2
"
¢
e
.
1.
Use
the
above
graph
(Figure
3)
to
estimate
wave
height
for
the
following
wind
durations:
a.
5hours
(5"
2.7
mexersS
b.
30
hours
(30")
S
2
medersS
Shore
Processes
and
Modification
of
Coasts
Modification
of
Coasts
Questions
1.
Compare
the
photo
below
with
F
photograph
of
Point
Lookout
on
Long
Island
The
sandy
beach
has
been
stabilized
tempoi
"groins”
that
extend
seaward
and
rol
Laboratory
Exercises
in
Oceanography,
p.
lfi.
reakwater
and
deposit
sand
inside
the
of
Oceanography,
pp.
319-320).
igure
4a
on
the
previous
page.
The
photo
is
an
aerial
,
New
York.
North
is
toward
the top
of
the
image.
rarily
with
3
hard
engineering
structures
called
ughly
perpendicular
to
the
shore
(from
Pipkin
et
al,
2001,
E
w
Lovashoce
o€
c\,Y:‘fiu
-
]
Cucrent—
Seat
A
o
o
Flow
of
wove
ot
parmllels
Mox
o
ok
(s
e
corrent,
parallel
4o
Ane
beach
face
S
et
Yo
east
a)
Inthe
photo,
what
is
the
direction
of
longshore
current
relative
to
north?
&G
b)
From
the
photo,
what
is
the
visible
evidence
that
indicates
the
direction
of
the
longshore
_
(r\y
current
and
therefore
the
direction
of
sand
transport?
€
0:-SYem
°°'a
coX
the
avoin
\0\‘7
<
¢)
Assuming
that
North
is
toward
the
top
of
the
photo,
label
the
side
of
the
westernmost
"V\\r:'
e
N
groin
with
the
letter,
D,
for
the
side
of
the
groin
where
sand
has
been
deposited,
and
the
et
letter,
E,
for
the
side
of
the
groin
where
sand
has
been
eroded.
—
D(W(\
2
Whmhm@fiomermequesmbebw
2.
Give
the
geographic
direction,
relative
to
North,
for
the
flow
direction
of
the
longshore
current
(indicated
as
“littoral
drift”
in
the
figure).
Lov‘fi%\no(b
QO
\
S
MoVIng
codt
3.
Record
the
following
in
Figure
5:
1)
the
direction
of
littoral
drift
(i.e.
the
direction
that
sand
was
transported
in
the
longshore
current),
2)
the
direction
of
wave
approach,
3)
the
location
of
the
breakwater,
which
is
a
“hard”
coastal
engineering
structure,
built
of
large
chunks
of
quarried
rock
called
rip-rap
and
put
in
place
by
coastal
engineers
to
protect
boats
moored
on
the
leeward
side
(i.e.
the
side
facing
the
beach
or
the
side
opposite
to
that
facing
incoming
waves),
4)
the
seaward
build-out
of
sand
at
Location
B,
5)
the
location
of
the
pier.
Figure
5.
Sketch
of
the
breakwater
and
resultlng
effects
at
the
beach
at
Santa
Momca
CA
pnor
.
to
1970
(from
Pipkin
and
others,
2001,
Laboratory
Exercises
in
Oceanography,
p.
135).
4.
Of
the
3
locations,
A,
B,
and
C,
which
will
receive
the
full
impact
of
incoming
waves?
=
\C\
5.
What
effect
does
the
breakwater
have
on
wave
energy
at
Location
B?
Sediment
<
depoSried-thele
6.
What
effect
does
the
pier
have
on
the
flow
of
the
longshore
current?
TY
SYopS
\orgdnore
A
ik
7.
Offer
a
simple
explanation
as
to
why
sand
has
built-up
seaward
at
location
B.
Include
the
following
in
your
explanation:
1)
the
effect
of
the
breakwater
and
the
pier,
and
2)
the
ability
of
the
longshore
current
to
erode
sand
compared
to
the
rate
of
sand
build-up
from
incoming
waves
obstructed
and
slowed
by
the
breakwater.
’Y\r\e
e
VoS
lolocte
e
Ylouww
OFae
\ww%
COUSY
Sedimentd
Yo
Ceposit
7.
'W\e
\QF@QKW&*C‘%
Aot
S
e
Sawmc
oS
e
(»fo
Your preview ends here
Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version
- Access to all documents
- Unlimited textbook solutions
- 24/7 expert homework help
Tides
For
this
part
of
the
lab,
you
will
analyze
tide
data
collected
by
the
National
Oceanic
and
Atmospheric
Administration
(NOAA)
for
January
2011
in
New
York.
You
will
be
comparing
the
predicted
highest
high
tides
and
lowest
low
tides
in
a
month
to
the
phases
the
moon
is
in
at
the
same
time.
The
NOAA
has
about
3000
stations
that
collect
tide
data
from
all
over
the
country.
The
values
you
will
be
analyzing
were
predicted
for
a
station
at
the
end
of
Manhattan
in
New
York
Cityina
place
called
The
Battery.
To
the
right
is
a
map
of
where
the
station
is
as
well
as
a
picture
of
the
station
itself
(inside
the
shed
are
the
scientific
instruments
measuring
data
all
the
time).
Pre-Lab
Questions:
Read
about
the
tides
on
the
Geology
Café
website,
then
answer
the
questions
below:
1.
How
many
high
tides
occur
most
days?
Two
h‘\%\h
FideS
2.
How
many
low
tides
occur
most
days?
oo
\ow
YdeS
e
(e
O
Suit
st
Aee
afin
A
Cavity
Hypothesis:
Predict
what
phase(s)
the
moon
will
be
in
when
tides
are
furthest
from
the
average
(higher
and
lower).
be
Ve
e
woon
i\
\oe
o\
vwoen,
Tides
Lab
Questions
1.
Use
the
Tide
Predictions
for
January
2011
data
table
to
plot
the
low
tide
data
on
the
prepared
graph.
Connect
each
data
point
with
a
line.
Most
days
will
have
two
data
points.
.
Label
the
line
“Low
Tide”.
.
Use
the Tide
Predictions
for
January
2011
data
table
to
plot
the
high
tide
data
on
the
prepared
graph.
Connect
each
data
point
with
a
line.
Most
days
will
have
two
data
points.
Use
a
different
color
than
used
in
step
1
if
possible.
.
Label
the
line
“High
Tide”".
OCEA10L-Mt
SAC-Professor
Diana
L.
Pomeroy-Fall
2020
5.
Find,
circle
and
label
the
following
locations
on
your
graph:
highest
low
tide,
lowest
low
tide,
highest
high
tide,
lowest
high
tide.
o
Use
the
Moon
Phases
for
January
2011
data
to
find
the
date
for
each
phase
on
the
plotted
graph.
Circle
each
date
and
label
the
phase
that
occurs
next
to
that
date
on
plotted
graph.
~
.
Use
your
graph
to
complete
the
following
questions:
o
On
what
date
was
the
lowest
low
tide?
\-72-20
\|
What
was
the
tide
height?
-4
e
On
what
date
was
the
highest
low
tide?
!-2-22\
what
was
the
tide
height?
4
&
foe
On
what
date
was
the
lowest
high
tide?
1~
20\l
What
was
the
tide
height?
3A
o
a
e
On
what
date
was
the
highest
high
tide?
\-20-20!{
What
was
the
tide
height?
s
[¢]
.
When
the
high
tides
were
at
their
highest
for
the
month,
were
the
low
tides
also
at
their
highest?
If
not,
where
were
they
at?
Explain.
'\\’\4—‘6
A&
noY
Seet
Ao
Cooce\nde
f.
Is
there
any
relationship
between
the
lowest
high
tides
of
the
month
and
t&\i\highest
low
tides?
Explain.
86
pc
0F
NdeS
opfn
Hcooahovt
Hne
eginging
ang
w
(\,\'cof"\\f\c,wwnr\“f‘:.
J
9
o
On
your
graph
you
can
notice
there
are
two
times
during
the
month
when
the
high
tides
were
higher
than
normal
and
the
low
tides
were
lower
than
normal.
What
two
phases
of
the
moon
occurred
around
these
times?
Phase
#1:
£\)\\
wwON
Phase
#2:
‘\(:\)\\
Moo
h.
On
your
graph
you
can
also
notice
there
are
two
times
during
the
month
when
the
high
tides
were
lower
than
normal
and
the
low
tides
were
higher
than
normal.
What
two
phases
of
the
moon
occurred
around
these
times?
Figsr
quorice
do
the
Phase
#2:
Newd
WO
+0
e
Yull
moov
£ivs
GL()MH‘QK
Phase
#1:
Conclusions:
1.
How
did
your
hypothesis
stand
up?
Does
the
phase
of
the
moon
have
an
effect
on
the
height
of
the
tides?
Explain.
)"“3
\\\bPO*\\\eSiS
Seem
S
Jo
be
C'O(ch‘l-
|
lpecavse
the
high
anés
low
4ide$
correladte
With
Ahe
Joil
and
hew
moont
Flf\o\S&S_
OCEA10L-Mt
SAC-Professor
Diana
L.
Pomeroy-Fall
2020
2.
Aspring
tide
(when
high
tides
are
higher
and
low
tides
are
lower
than
average)
occurs
around
the
time
of
the
new
moon
and
full
moon.
Neap
tides
(when
high
tides
are
lower
and
low
tides
are
higher
than
average)
occur
around
the
time
of
the
first
and
third
quarters.
The
diagram
below
shows
when
the
spring
and
neap
tides
occur.
Using
the
tide
data
from
January
2011
included
in
this
experiment,
label
the
diagram
below
with
the
dates
of
the
spring
and
neap
tides
that
occurred.
Date:
\’2’20\
\
Spring
tide
Newgoo"
/<
\r%eaptide
pate:
\
24
-\
|
First
quarter
rnoonO
a
O‘lhird
quarter
moon
O
Spring
tide
Date:
\
22—\
3.
Which
tides
are
higher
than
normal
during
a
spring
tide,
low
or
high
tides?
Based
on
the
diagram
above
explain
why
you
think
this
happens.
(Hint:
it
has
to
do
with
gravity)
The
MonS
et
on
oomv‘»*g
COLSTS
}\'\ob\(\
xides
o
be
\0'\%0(
Aoving
Fre
et
Zuo\(m,
Your preview ends here
Eager to read complete document? Join bartleby learn and gain access to the full version
- Access to all documents
- Unlimited textbook solutions
- 24/7 expert homework help
OCEA10L-Mt
SAC-Professor
Diana
L.
Pomeroy-Fall
2020
Tide
Predictions
for
January
2011
New
York
City
date
|
low
tide
(feet)*|
high
tide
(feet)*
date
|low
tide
(feet)*|
high
tide
(feet)*
1/1/2011
-0.3
5.1
|1/16/2011
0.1
3.7
1/1/2011
a1|
|1/17/2011
-0.1
4.7
1/2/2011
-0.3
s.2|
|1/17/2011]
4
1/2/2011
-0.5
42|
|1/18/2011
-0.2
5.1
1/3/2011
-0.3
s.2|
|1/18/2011
-0.5
4.3
1/3/2011
-0.5|
43|
|1/19/2011
-0.5
5.3
1/4/2011
-0.3
5.2|
|1/19/2011
-0.8
4.5
1/4/2011
-0.6
43|
|1/20/2011
-0.7
5.5
1/5/2011
-0.3
5.1
[1/20/2011
-1
4.8
1/5/2011
-0.6
43|
|1/21/2011
-0.9
5.5
1/6/2011
-0.2
49
|1/21/2011
-1.1
4.9
1/6/2011
-0.4
42|
|1/22/2011
-0.9]
5.3
1/7/2011
0|
47|
|1/22/2011
-1.1
5
1/7/2011
-0.3
41|
|1/23/2011
-0.7
5.1
1/8/2011
0.2
45|
|1/23/2011
-0.9|
5
1/8/2011
-0.1
4|
|1/24/2011
-0.5
4.8
1/9/2011
0.5
42|
|1/24/2011
-0.6
1/9/2011
0.2
1/25/2011
-0.2
4.9
1/10/2011
0.7
4|
|1/25/2011
-0.3
4.5
1/10/2011
0.4
3.9
|1/26/2011
0.1
4.9|
1/11/2011
0.9
39|
[1/26/2011
-0.1
4.2
1/11/2011
0.6
37|
|1/27/2011
0.1
4.7
1/12/2011
1
3.9
|1/27/2011
0]
3.9
1/12/2011
0.7
35|
[1/28/2011
0.1
4.7
1/13/2011
0.9
3.9
|1/28/2011
0.1
3.8
1/13/2011
0.7
3.4
|1/29/2011
0|
4.6
1/14/2011
0.7
4|
|1/29/2011
0
3.8
1/14/2011]
.
05
3.4]
|1/30/2011
-0.1
4.7
1/15/2011]
-
0.5
42|
|1/30/2011
-0.1
4
1/15/2011
0.3
3.5
|1/31/2011
-0.3
4.8
1/16/2011
0.2
44|
|1/31/2011
4.1
*Height
is
measured
from
an
average
Moon
Phases
for
January
2011
New
Moon
Jan.4
First
quarter
Jan.
12
Full
Moon
Jan.
19
Third
Quarter
Jan.
26
10
OCEA10L-Mt
SAC-Professor
Diana
L.
Pomeroy-Fall
2020
January
2011
Tides
TT0Z/TE/T
~
|-1T02/0€/T
-
-T102/62/1T
-
|-ttoz/82/T
—1102/LT/T
—1102/92/T
—1102/52/1
—1102/v2/T
—-T10Z/€T/1T
—1102/22/1
~fTT0T/12/T
-
t10Z/0Z/T
—1T0Z/61/1
—1T0Z/81/1
-
b-t10Z/LT/T
—1102/9T/1
—110Z/ST/T
—1T0Z/¥1/T
—TT0Z/€T/T
-110Z/2T/1
—TT02/11/T
-
|-tt0z/01/T
-
+1102/6/1
-
-1102/8/1
=T1102/L/T
-
-F1102/9/1
-
=T1102/8/1
-
110Z/t/1
—~TTOZ/€/T
—1102/2/T
L
L
L
L
<
o~
0w
WY
<
N
W
W
=
N
B
I
.
IS
IS
IR
I
N
B
46
18
(3934)
3y319H
110Z/1/1
Date
11