TEXTILE NOTES ch.5- Google Docs

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Fashion Institute Of Technology *

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131

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Mechanical Engineering

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Oct 30, 2023

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pdf

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Uploaded by CountThunder11690

CHAPTER 5 WOVEN FABRIC -cross grain is called the filling, each yarn is called the pick -warp runs parallel to the selvedge -when weaving, the opening between interlocking called shed, shuttle goes thru to create cross grains -more harnesses makes more threads interlocking -stretch is in the crossgrain/filling THE PROCESS -Picks/filling are moved across the shed (hole created by separating the ends) -warp/ends are set up and never move, usually filament so they stronger, stiffness, ply yarns so it doesn't shrink, they're under the most stress -harnesses are number of yarns we raise (metal pieces that raise the thread) LOOMS -Shuttle loom • Shuttleless loom • Projectile loom • Rapier loom • Jet loom • Air-jet loom • Water-jet loom • Multiphase loom -the faster something is made the less it costs -top and bottom: direction of fabric rotate 360, pile up or down (down most common) -face is “right side”, back is “wrong side” Ways to distinguish warp and filling yarns: • Selvage (warp yarns are always parallel to selvage.) • Yarn Sizes (warp – thinner yarn, filament yarn; typically) • Twist (warp – more twist) • Stiffness (warp – stiffer) • Ply yarns (warp – plied yarn) • Yarns per inch (typically more EPI than PPI) • Stretchability (weft – more stretch ability) • Stripes (mostly in the warp direction) YARN COUNT Swatch #10: picks

Along the long side—crossgrain/picks: 39 Along the short side—length/ends: 50 -most sturdy weaves are more balanced (100x100) -shown as yarn count= ends x picks -100 x 50 = 150 -Fabric cost is 70%-75% of the cost of the garment -float means u skip and adjacent yarn, not a direct grid -they are stronger because yarns are more tightly packed, you have to break yarns -satin is strongest, satin is weakest float (runs, snags, longer floats), twill is happy medium THREE KINDS OF WEAVES -plain weave (same on both sides) - twill weave (2 down 1 across, up to the right is right handed twill, left handed goes up to the left) -USUALLY should be no diff in left or right, but could be done left handed has more give because of how loom is set up w more slack -houndstooth is a color and weave effect of twill (left handed twill) -satin weave: long floats makes the light reflect more, when the long floats run in the filling direction is sateen (made with a spun yarn, can be made in a camouflage fabric, very durable, very expensive, used for military) -JACQUARD pattern, manipulated each yarn independently as opposed to groups of yarns -loom operates slower and w no harnesses -45, 46,47, 48 -pile waves: extra set of yarns, kept as a loop (terry #39) called uncut pile weave, velvet is a warp cut pile weave (has little cut loops surface texture) -napped: mechanical action after its woven, could be brushed up as an after effect, has a brushed effect texture, has an issue with wear and durability, spun yarn -lino weave is two yarns twisted around one yarn, used for mosquito netting -CC21 escalator down to lobby, to the right down steps to basement to the left -Balanced weave has same amount of warp and filling yarns

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